Railed Cup Tray for Decent Espresso DE1PRO

Instructions

Base pieces can be downloaded on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5668939 created by user cygmatic Milling 1. Plane and joint tray stock, cross cut in half, and laminate edges to create a board between 1/2-3/4" thick, ~10" x 12". Final tray dimensions will be 8.66" x 9.06" as cut by Origin. Ensure that one corner is square and mark it, as it will be the reference corner for the top and bottom faces 2. Plane rail stock to reach 3/8" thickness. Cross cut into 3 pieces of 8" each Rail Bodies 3. Affix one piece rail stock to spoil board (e.g. Workstation shelf) with Shaper tape field level and above piece 4. Place rail_single.svg on piece and cut. There will be ample space, so make sure the feet of each rail are in areas with no voids or cracks, as these will be the locations of the tenons 5. Repeat above twice more to create three rails total. Mark one face of each rail piece as a reference face for the next steps Rail Tenons 6. Secure one rail piece with feet facing up for creating a tenon with rail_tenon.svg. If using a Workstation, - The small (25mm) spoilboard can be used as a fixture to create a repeatable workspace. Clamp spoil board vertically against left side vertical alignment pins - Clamp one rail piece butted against fixture, with reference face against Clamping Face, and both feet flush against Support Bar. Remove fixture - Create workspace and grid against top left corner of rail piece left foot, and place tenon using custom anchor of rail_tenon.svg at 0,0 - Cut tenon to 3/8 in depth. If starting cut with 1/4" bit and 0.1" offset, then waste material at corners of foot will also be removed - Go slowly while cutting tenons. If the rails follow the wood grain, then the tenons will be made of edge grain and can be delicate 7. Repeat 6 above, but using right vertical alignment pins, spoil board, and right foot of the same rail. Remember to keep the same reference face against the Clamping Face as you grid off the right foot to ensure alignment of tenons. You will need to flip the svg horizontally to match the new origin 8. Repeat steps 6-7 twice more for the remaining rails. If you carefully used a fixture, you can simply erase the cuts from and reuse the left and right rail workspaces, rather than regridding each time Top of Tray 9. With the tray stock reference corner at the top-left, affix tray stock to spoil board (e.g. Workstation extended shelf) with tape field level with and above piece 10. Create grid based on top-left reference corner, and place tray_top.svg using custom anchor at 0,0 11. Cut first mortise hole to 0.395" (3/8" plus bottom glue gap). Test fit a tenon and adjust offset, I ended with -0.003" offset 12. Cut second mortise as in step 11 and test fit both tenons of a single rail. There is no tolerance built into the distance between mortises, so if the rail experienced wood movement you may need to use a rasp or sandpaper to file the near or far edges of the tenons for both rail tenons to fit 13. Repeat with remaining mortises 14. Cut tray slots to depth equaling 1/2 of total tray thickness, as measured by calipers 15. (optional) Use engraving bit to engrave Decent "d" Bottom of Tray 16. Flip tray stock left-to-right so that the reference corner is at the top-right and affix to spoil board 17. Create grid based on top-right reference corner, and place tray_bottom.svg using custom anchor at 0,0 18. Cut tray slots to depth of remaining 1/2 of total tray thickness. You will likely have to sneak up on depth until the top face slots just show through bottom face slots 19. Cut through cuts outside tray perimeter. This is fairly large and should stay affixed to spoilboard, but you may want to leave thin tabs to prevent the piece from moving if you are not confident in your double-sided tape. Tabs can then be trimmed with a chisel Finishing 20. Round over or chamfer rail and tray edges. I used 1/8" roundovers for most edges, but did the outside-top of each rail as 3/16" for some visual and tactile variance 21. Sand the rails and tray before gluing up, as it will be easier as separate pieces. After glue is dry, apply finish of your choice (I used Osmo Polyx clear matte) 22. Once cured, dry fit the tray and printed cup tray base pieces over the DE1 23. Use double-sided tape on one base piece and affix to the tray. Do the same with the second base piece as you carefully align it over the DE1. This will ensure exact placement of each base piece 24. Using an awl or center punch, mark the location through each screw hole onto bottom of tray 25. Remove base pieces and use punched markings to drill pilot holes into tray 26. Affix each base piece with 4x screws (note: I only used 2 screws for each base piece. This is not a structural joint and only prevents the base piece from moving around) 27. (optional) cut a piece of silicone rubber sheet to match rounded contour of base. Affix to base with CA glue and accelerator. This may cover screw heads but that's okay, as the silicone will prevent tray from sliding around. Repeat for other base piece