Heptagonal bowl

Instructions

The long bits are necessary to get the depth of cut this project requires. My ZedSled is set up on 60mm rails so the 50mm stock is 10mm below the carriage (13mm below the base of shaper origin. I mount the cutters so they protrude below SO at all times, specifically, within 1mm of the surface of my z touch block (the aluminium block in the top left of one of the pictures is exactly 50mm high and I use it as a reference surface for all the Z touches. Setting the cutter so close to the surface gave me just over 40mm of cut depth, which is what this project requires. The three sharpie lines on the side of the stock are where I grid off to ensure accurate alignment when re-gridding for the underside. The order of operations is: 1) heptagon bowl inner roughing.SVG - With the flat bit, pocket cut the inside to the encoded depths, finish as inside cuts then cut the outer edge of the bowl as an outside cut to a depth of at least 15mm (I routinely go to 16 because I cut in 4mm increments). 2) heptagon bowl inner.SVG - with the ball nose bit, starting at the centre (deepest), make inside cuts, working outward. If you change each cut path to a guid after cutting, the focus moves automatically to the next path. If you have autopass, you won't even have to set the depths yourself. 3) flip the workpiece and re-grid off the same three sharpie marks. 4) heptagon bowl outer roughing.SVG - With the flat bit, starting at the outer edge, make outside cuts to the encoded depths in suitable increments. Pocket cut out the relief for the base of the bowl. 5) heptagon bowl outer.SVG - with the ball nose bit, starting at the smallest, shallowest cut path and working your way out. Be aware of when the waste finally comes separate: Remove it carefully without dislodging the bowl because it's now stuck down by only the tape on the 10mm edge (not a lot of tape). 6) Sand out your machining lines and apply finish.