A modern and masculine take on a traditional lady's fan. This was a One Tool Challenge build.
6
Other
Fan vanes outer chequered.svg
Fan vanes.svg
2 x 200mmx400mmx0.5mm 3K carbon sheet. I used one matt and one gloss.
1 x 200mmx50mmx2mm 3k carbon sheet.
1 x 25mmx4mm brass Chicago screw.
1 x m3 brass eyebolt to replace screw in the Chicago screw (optional lanyard ring).
1.5 metres of 0.1mm dyneemer braided fishing line
Shaper Origin.
Workstation
1mm bit
2mm o-flute bit
90 degree chamfer bit or engraving bit
3mm roundover bit
some 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper for deburring all edges.
The thread holes are all drilled with a 1mm upcut bit. The three holes on the scales are also joined by a channel cut with the same bit to a dept of 0.5mm. This is to recess the thread on the outer surfaces. The thread is permanently secured by the application of CA glue to the stitches in those channels. The pivot holes are specified as 4mm. I had to add 0.1mm when cutting because my chicago screw's barrel was a fraction oversize. Trial and error applied here. The counterbores were 0.9mm deep. This accommodated the miniature eyebolt's shoulder perfectly. Because the eyebolt shoulder was 5.5mm in diameter, I made a fixture to hold the Chicago screw barrel and used the o-flute bit to reduce the head diameter from 8mm to 5.5mm to match the eyebolt. The vanes were cut out 6 at a time. I found the easiest way to work was to mark my spoilboard to avoid re-gridding. The 0.5mm sheets were stuck down with 50mm wide tape in two strips to give complete tape coverage in the cutting area. The first cut was the bottom side of the bounding box in the SVG. This cut off the remainder of the sheet with a straight, square edge, making it a lot easier to position it for the next six. The vanes are spaced for a 2mm cutter to pass exactly between them. Any alternative cutter (e.g. 1/16") has to be less than 2mm diameter. The chequering was cut before the scales. I found it easiest to tell SO the bit was 1mm, the cut depth was 0.5mm and the offset was -0.5mm for outside cuts that blued out the actual cut area. cut all of one diagonal first then erase the blue and start over with the other diagonals. N.B. Cutting the second diagonals feels 'weird' because the cutter alternates between resistance and no resistance as it passes through the furrows. Just be ready for it. Stitching and spacing the vanes is fiddly but the trick is to go through the three holes with an S shape, back through the middle hole and the first hole to complet a figure eight then through the middle and the last hole once more and pull tight with the vane flush with the previous one (The closed position). That should give you the correct spacing when in the open position .
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