An updated cut file for the Festool Kapex 120 REB saw. For this I took the inspiration from @Plistumi then adjusted dimensions to more accurately fit this saw.
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Jigs & Fixtures
Kapex fence - new dimmensions_layout.svg
- 8mm or 9mm depth lumber (sized sufficiently above 560 x 122 to support origin without risk of tipping). Make sure your lumber is flat.
I used resawn/planed hard maple.
- Spoil board
- Shaper tape
6mm up-spiral bit
3mm up-spiral bit
Arris rounding bit + router (optional)
These measurements are for the Kapex 120 REB (Purchased 2022). I have added an image with all the dimensions shown so you can check against your saw. - Note that the image of the cutout I have shown is based on the cut file by @Plistumi. Which although works ok, makes it harder to get the fence parts back into position - say after doing a mitre cut. When I next remake I will switch to my cut file. I recommend 8mm board thickness as less will likely warp and more will render hold down clamp less operable. For the bolts I recommend M6 x 20mm joint connector bolts paired with M6 wing nuts. If you are UK based then you can get them here: https://www.accu.co.uk/joint-connector-bolts/649961-SJCB-M6-20-ZP https://www.accu.co.uk/wing-nuts/8037-HWN-M6-A2 1. Secure your flat board to a sacrificial base with tape; 2. Set up your shaper tape then do scan/grid (its ok if your piece is above the plane of the shaper tape, or use some shims to get coplanar ); 3. Import cut file and place as desired within your grid; 4. Fit 3mm bit and helix cut bolt holes (check your board thickness and adjust cut depth accordingly); 5. Swap to 6mm bit and inside cut/pocket out the recesses for the bolt shoulders. You might want to adjust this depth up to 4.5mm to make sure your bolt face is sub flush (if you set up a stop piece on your cutting surface you will be able to remove your board and replace without an issue); 6. Do outside cut also with the 6mm bit. Suggest two cut passes (autopass is helpful but not essential). If your piece is well fixed with tape then you can do these two passes with say a 0.3mm offset if you want and then do a finish pass. Personally I did not bother with offset and instead did a quick sanding. You can also use an arris rounding bit in your palm router for consistent touchable edges! 7. Fit your part with the adjustable fence pieces flush with the edge of the pullout base parts - when pushed in. This edge will serve as quick reference to return the fence to position after doing a mitre/bevel cut.
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