This miter fixture was designed to safely cut small pieces on the miter saw. This design is for the Festool Kapex KS 120 with the Crown Stop table extensions. It could be modified/scaled for use with other miter saws that have a trenching capability.
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Jigs & Fixtures
DRAWING KAPEX_ALIGNMENT KEY.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_ASSY-01.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_BASE.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_FENCE INSERT.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_FENCE.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_MITERSTOP45.pdf
DRAWING KAPEX_MITERSTOP60.pdf
FenceInsert.SVG
KapexMiterFixture.svg
18 mm Baltic Birch ply (14" x 35")
Small pieces of hardwood of choice
Hardware as noted in attached assembly drawing BOM
Shaper Origin, CNC, or conventional woodworking tools
1/4" spiral upcut bit
1/4" spiral downcut bit
1/4" compression bit
90 degree V bit or countersink bit with hand drill.
I built this having need to safely cut miters on small lengths of material for a box lid. I cut length stops for both 45 and 60 degree cuts and the opposite ends are square should I need to use it as a cutoff stop. The miter stops are reversible and can be used on either side of the fixture and can be flipped over for a captured miter stop. The design is based on the hardware that I already had on hand so this can be modified based on your available hardware. I used flanged threaded inserts installed from the bottom to prevent possibility of pull through and to ensure the insert was below the top surface. Make sure to recess the flange to keep the fixture flat on the miter table and provide ease of turret movement (also prevents scratching the saw bed). Also, verify screws do not protrude past the bottom of the fixture for the same reasons. I used the tee slot in the crown stop extensions with elongated tee nuts and hardwood alignment keys to attach the fixture. The width of the grooves and keys is 7.8 mm in width to ensure they will fit easily in the tee slots and provide good registration. Elongated tee nuts are used to spread the clamp force over a larger area. Alternatively, the Festool F style or quick release clamps could be used to secure the fixture. The fixed fences are glued in place and aligned with dowels. I went overkill on the number of dowels and really needed only 2 per fixed fence. The fence insert is used as a chipbreaker and is intended to be periodically replaced. I suggest using through holes in both the insert and the base so the dowels can be driven out with a punch as they are very tight (at least initially). I provided screw hold downs for the replaceable insert to address future loosening of the dowels as the insert is replaced. The photo shows a center dowel position on the insert which I have since deleted. The clamp is a 3D printed CNC clamp from printables.com with a star knob and 37 mm screw length. (This is not shown on the BOM). Threaded insert locations are positioned to avoid the common 0, 30, and 45 degree angle settings. If you use any other angle setting ensure your blade will not contact the threaded insert. With 18 mm Baltic Birch ply and the 13 mm inserts used, there should be about 4.5 mm clearance between the top of the fixture base and the threaded insert. Be sure to adjust your trench depth accordingly.
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