Shaper Kumiko

By Beck_Makes
|
BY-NC-SA 4.0 License
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Updated Mon Jan 30 2023

An easy way to use up all that scrap wood with 2 workspaces to a single board.

> 2 hr
Intermediate

76

Joinery

Files Included (4)

  • frame X .svg

    5 kB
  • frame X IC .svg

    3 kB
  • middle IC.svg

    2 kB
  • middle.svg

    2 kB

Materials

12 strips of 0.25 x 0.75 x 13.768" (could be 0.25 x 0.5) wood.

13 strips of 0.25 x 0.75 x 11 wood

0.75 mdf approximately 20" x 18" and 3" x 14"

fixture components like dogs and wedges, duck clamps or horizontal toggle clamps

Tools

shaper origin

sandpaper

table saw or some means of making the strips.

Instructions

I am still in the trial phase of this project and would like feedback or collaboration on the files. I would also like to eventually make a proper pdf instruction file, however I wanted to release this to see if it develops further or if there is any community interest at all. step one: Create an MDF tape board. Size is arbitrary but it should be at least a few inches wider than the longest strips and long enough for shaper origin to read tape on the other side. step two: Scan and grid the board. Use the create feature to pen a line at least an inch from the left end of the board and about 0.5 into the board. Cut at full depth with a 0.25 cutter. insert a 0.25 x 0.75 piece of strip about 1.5" wood into the gap. This will be your stop block. Do the same to the other side of the board. step three: Create a new scan and grid for each side. The grid will be made from the front face of the tape board and the inside edge of the stop block. Save each side as its own workspace and mark the board with the name so there's less chance of a mix up. One side will be able to make 3 variations needed to make the triangle lattice and the other with be for the small internal pieces. step four: lay a strip at the face and sandwich it in with the 3" x 14" piece of mdf. This will help you determine where your fixture components will go. I used 0.75 dowel and wedges so i drilled the holes, put the dowel pieces in with a tiny gap for my wedges.Screw (or clamps) the board down to a spoil board. I started by clamping and switched to screws because I was getting slight movement because to was putting a lot of pressure on my wedges with a small hammer (probably unnecessary). step five: insert the file frameX IC.svg . I hope I'm not mixing this up but the x axis should be 0.25 and y axis at 0. There is a guide strip to help you see it so I'm confident you'll figure it out. The IC in the file name stands for inside cut. I used a negative offset of .001 to help it fit nicely. The other frame file is an on-line cut file but I found that the gaps were too tight, but I included it in case it works for you. step six: mount your first strip and cut. There are 3 different ways you need to use to cut the strips. Each way will be a set of 6 at varying lengths depending on the overall shape you aim to make. The file include a vertical on-line cut so that the bit that sticks out the side of the final piece are all of uniform length. For the triangle I created I started with a piece with 6 "X's" and then 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. If you cut all 6 X's on each strip, you could use the off cuts - for example, if you cut all 6 X's but only needed 4, you could cut at the 4 mark and use the leftover 2-strip but you'll need the handcut the tail bit off. bottom strip: cut both sides of the X to 2/3 of strip width. 2/3 of 0.75 is 0.5. Add 0.01 for ease of fit. (0.51) Middle strip: cut depth is 1/3 depth plus 0.01 (0.26). Cut only the side of the X going from the bottom left and up ( / ). remove the strip and roll it upside down so the the end that was touching the stop block remains the same. remount and cut the other side the same way. The result should resemble the X but only 1/3 deep on top and bottom Top strip: This one requires 2 cut depths. the first cut I like to start with is the side of the X that goes from the bottom right to top left ( \ ) and 1/3 depth ( 0.26). Then cut the other side of the X ( bottom left to top right - / ) at 2/3 depth (0.51). The end result should look like you cut it wrong. lol Step seven: sand any burr and assemble. take your time. and take not of the fit up and where adjustments can be made next time. Step eight: Unscrew the board and spin it to the other side. create a new scan and grid. place the middle file at the same XY position as the last and save a new workspace. If your strips are slightly thicker than 0.25 then you'll want to place the middle IC.svg file for the negative offset, but it'll be faster with the on-line file. x Don't forget to use the other side of the 3" x 14" board ( it'll help keep the cuts cleaner). Cut the middle pieces. They will be friction fit into the triangle so you may have to experiment. Try using different species or dyes and see what happens. If you have any questions or feedback, please reach out to me on instagram @beck_makes . I would love to hear from you.


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