Kenawa Tsugi Joint

Instructions

mount piece on the workstation face and create a grid off of the bottom right with 1/8" increments. Cut side 1 file: be aware of the clamping pressure and that you workpiece may flex when material is cut free. cut the end first (0.73 depth). Cut the rest of the shape but avoid cutting past the corner and along the outsides. Cut to max depth (1.25) in .25 passes but be sure not to cut into the .73 area unless you are uncomfortable with a chisel then just go around the lip at the end but not any further towards the bottom. This may actually stream line things. Cut side 2: Roll the work piece towards yourself, reclamp, create grid and place side 2 file. Align to blue guide line. Cut the .73 area at the end first. This is where it gets tricky. Begin cutting the rest of the shape from the end to the mid way step (where the key will go). This is done to prevent the clamping pressure on the waste piece interfering with the cutter as it comes free. Cut the path between the step and the nook and then the last part. Im horrible at explaining this, but i think you probably understand what i mean. The nook will require a plunge with a negative 0.005 offset because the path is designed poorly =( You might find it all fits nicer by doing it all with that offset. Cut the top file: it should obvious what side of the workpiece that is. this will take the rounding out of the key hole. Cut the bottom file: =) now make one more. If you didn't understand what i meant about cutting around the lip, you will now. the ends will need to be cleaned up with a sharp chisel. It doesn't have to look nice as it will be hidden. Make a key .25 x .25 or perhaps slightly larger.I made mine with my band saw that tapered from .3 to .25 over 6" glue it up or not, up to you, but if you do, dry fit the pieces to make sure it goes together perfectly. hammer in the key and flush cut sand and finish. enjoy.