Pendant Pull

Instructions

- Start by milling your stock. I matched the thickness of the pendant and plate to match the thickness of the plywood I used to hold it in place (1/4") Leave stock long to safely operate at machines. - Cut the "holder". Both size pendant files have the "holder" built in to ensure perfect centering of the tongue of the pendant. First cut the dogbone shape out of your 1/4" plywood. Leave this in place so you can bring your material to it, after the joinery has been cut. - Grab your post material and lay out center. You'll be cutting a 1/8" groove for the smaller pendant, and a 1/4" groove for the medium. I use the regular blade for the small, and set up a 1/4" dado for the medium. Raise the blade to 3/8" to allow room for pendant to swing freely. Place some thin ply on your fence to create a zero clearance so dado stack doesn't blow out material. Clamp your post to the fence and set up a short stop block to cut multiple parts. I cut either end of the long stock so I have extra pieces. - Mill pendant and plate material to match the width of the "holder" you cut out of the plywood, still sitting on your workstation or setup. a snug fit will ensure you cut the shape at perfect center. Do not cut to length yet. - Set up to cut the "tongue" for the pendant. Raise the blade 3/8" for the small pendant, and 1/2" for the medium. You are only cutting the shoulders here, still relying on your zero clearance fence. This allows you to cut and flip the material without needing to clamp every time, and helps keep it registered flat to your table or sled, since it has three points of contact (see image #2) You will cut the remainder of the shoulders off at the bandsaw. I lay out center (Remember, 1/8" for small and 1/4" for medium)and sneak up on the fit. Adding layers of blue tape (see image #3) to a stop block allows for micro adjustments. You want the tongue to fit snugly, with the ability to still rotate. - Cut the rest of the shoulders away at the bandsaw, leaving a little extra material. This will be cut away by the Origin and the shoulder you created at the table saw will be the only thing visible. - Set up to drill the pendant hole. I took a piece of scrap wood and milled it to 1 3/8" thick for the small pendant, (1 5/16" for medium) square an edge and secure both the pendant and post in place to the block with double stick tape, and you can use a 1/8" drill bit as a way to space the pendant away from the post. (see image #4) Secure a little blue tape to the bottom or exit side of the drilling operation to prevent blow out. A 1/16" drill bit doesn't usually have a brad point: use an awl, center punch, or just a brad point bit to create a little indent in the center of the side of the post, so the drill bit will slide into the correct drilling position. Drill slowly and carefully, making sure parts don't move. - Cut the pendant. You can now cut the pendant material to length, testing fit, and put in in the plywood holder you cut with your Origin, securing with double stick tape. This is a very delicate, small part, so take two or three light passes with the Origin (I've programmed final depths) cutting the little rabbet first, before cutting the perimeter. I found a .01 offset before final pass left the crispest finish. The first pendant you cut will rout away part of the holder, so if you're doing multiples, just place the next piece registered against the bottom to maintain accuracy. - Cut the small tenon for the post. This is probably the smallest piece I've ever cut with the most precision, and I found the router table to be the best and safest way. You must cut the post to 3/4" long before this operation. Double stick tape a sacrificial fence to both your router table and fence, burying a 1/2" pattern bit or similar. I used a sacrificial block to back up and support the small post, while also preventing blowout. Expose 1/4" of the bit to create a 1/4" long tenon. It is a very small cut, but also a very small piece. use a pencil eraser to apply pressure downward on the very center of the post as you push it along with the block. If you press down above the bit, it will grab your piece. I raised the bit no more than 1/32" at a time, ultimately raising the bit to just under 1/16" . Your hands will be safely distanced from the bit if you use a long pencil. Another alternative would be creating a very tight groove and backup piece to accept the post in a sacrificial block of wood and running that across the same zero clearance setup. - Cut the Plate. The files are set up similar to the pendant, Only you need to cut the mortise to accept the post first. These should be sized to a good starting point for whatever tenon you cut, and you can either make the tenon smaller or size your mortise accordingly. Round the corners of your tenon so it fits in snugly. Sand all parts and finish before gluing post into plate. While sanding, create a small radius on the underside of the post, so the pendant can swing freely. Test the fit before the final step. - Glue in pendant. I used a very thin CA glue to get into the tiny 1/16" hole. Only put glue in the side where the brass pin will exit, or you'll risk getting glue in the pendant, not allowing it to pivot. File and sand the brass flush with the sides of the post. To install, you can pre-drill a hole in the full assembly to either secure with a screw that passes through whatever door or drawer you are installing in, or I simply epoxied in a 1/8" brass rod that went into the door. -