Keep your collet wrench, hex key, extra collet, and bits at hand in this little holder inspired by the Shaper Tools logo. I designed this to be layers cut out of 12mm plywood, glued, and then finished with a belt sander and bandsaw. You could use 1/2" plywood or MDF without causing a lot of problems. Workstation is not required. I originally designed this for 3D printing and I've included the STL if you want to go that route.
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Tools
Shaper Origin tool and bit holder v2.1.stl
Shaper Origin tool and bit holder v2.2 origin.svg
12mm plywood approx. 28"x8"
CA glue
Spray shellac or other finish
Router, router table, flush cut bit
Clamps
Belt sander
Bandsaw (or table saw, possibly) for angled cut
1. Lay out a tape field on a large sheet of plywood. Determine roughly where the pieces will be cut out of and secure that area to a spoil board with double stick tape. Import and place the template. 2. Start with the 1/8" bit and helix cut the small holes for the hex key with a 0 offset 3. Switch to the 1/4" bit and helix the holes for the bits with a 0 offset 4. Cut the interior holes and exteriors of the parts with a .02" offset and 1/4" depth 5. Label the parts with a pencil; the parts are numbered with guides in the file with 1 being the top layer (skip labeling this one unless you want to sand it off) to 9 for the bottom 6. Continue cutting the interior holes all the way through the material and make a final pass with 0 offset 7. Cut the exteriors all the way around with the .02" offset and down to 3/8" 8. Make the final through-cut with a tab left on the back side of each piece; this is indicated with guides on layer #1, but you need to do this on all of the pieces to keep them secured. I tried using plenty of double stick tape but couldn't get it to stick well enough to hold the pieces. 9. Make a final finish pass with 0 offset while preserving the tabs holding the pieces in 10. Free the pieces with a saw or other means 11. Clean up the tabs at the router table with a flush cut bit 12. Sand the pieces to remove extra fuzz that will interfere with gluing and sand the interior holes since they are less accessible after assembly 13. Glue up with a sparing use of CA glue and clamp (it doesn't take much to hold the parts together and I didn't want any squeeze out into the holes) 14. Sand the exterior smooth with a belt sander 15. Cut the angled top on the bandsaw (or tablesaw, possibly). You're looking to cut a line connecting the front of the second layer up to the back edge of the interior hole. See pictures. This angle is approx. 42 degrees and I cut it upside down using my bandsaw with the fence set to the distance for the top edge 16. Do additional sanding and apply a few coats of shellac Settings for 3D printing (based on the "Standard Quality" Cura profile but some tweaks to increase strength): - Material: PLA - Layer height: .2mm - Wall width: .4mm - Wall count: 5 - Top and bottom layer count: 6 - Fill gaps between walls: Everywhere - Z Seam Alignment: Random - Infill: 10% - Infill pattern: lines No supports or extra adhesion needed. It took about 15 hours to print.
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