Bonanza Rummy Board - 24"

3/4" Poplar, Cut into (4) 6 inch wide segments - (2) Segments are 6w x 25 l - (2) Segments are 6w x 22 l Wood Glue Wood Stainer (I used Rubio Monocoat Ice Brown) Double-sided tape (2) Saw Hinges

Shop Tools: Shaper Origin Shaper Plate Joiner Table-saw Hacksaw Hand Sander Bits: 1/4" Bit Engraving Bit (1/4" shank) 8mm Roughing Bit 1/4" Spiral Ball Nose

Pre-Cutting Work 1)From the large poplar planks, cut the polar down into (2) 25" planks, and (2) 22" planks 2) Using the joiner, smooth an edge to flat so. you can line it up on the table saw. 3) On the table saw, trim the unjoined side to smooth. Line this up to your edge, and then trim down to 6". I had about 1" of material to trim down. 4) Measure the center of each piece near the edge. 5) Line up (1) 25" long board to center line with (1) 22" board. Apply wood glue to the edge of the shorter board. 6) Clamp the boards together, with opposing grain. I used tow clamps on bottom, and one on top to help prevent bowing. 7) After 30 mins, remove the excess glue with a scraper. Leave the boards clamped overnight 8) Sand the boards down to smooth and so that the glue seem disappears. I used 150 and 180 grit sand paper Cutting Work - Left Side 9) Place the two pieces down on a spoil board, attached with double-sided tape. Leave a gap between the pieces. 10) Create a grid using the back side of the bit. Place the left file down on the top left corner. Make sure the curve clears the two boards. 11) Cutting the Exterior 11A) Using the 1/4" bit, z-touch the bit. Do your usual Origin checks (vacuum, spindle speed). I used Spindle Speed 4. 11B) Start your passes. I did 4 passes, taking 0.25" off a cut. I took a 0.02 exterior cut until I did my finishing pass at depth, with the offset 0.01. 12) Engrave the letters and symbols except for the center text. 14) Switch bits & re-zero. 13) Using the roughing bit, select "pocket" for the main pockets, and add a 0.05 offset. I did two passes, and extended the depth to 0.36". Cut out every pocket in a circular motion. 14) Switch to the ball nose bit. I used auto-pass to do my cuts to 0.36", and switched to an inside cut. The final pass will leave a nice round edge in the pocket. 15) Switch back to the engraving bit and engrave the small text in the center. Cutting - Right Board 16) Flip the finished left board over and retape the back to create a new tape field. Ensure there is a gap. 17) Re-scan and create a grid. Import the file and snap it to the grid. 18A) Using the 1/4" bit, z-touch the bit. Do your usual Origin checks (vacuum, spindle speed). I used Spindle Speed 4. 18B) Start your passes. I did 4 passes, taking 0.25" off a cut. I took a 0.02 exterior cut until I did my finishing pass at depth, with the offset 0.01. 19) Engrave the letters and symbols except for the center text. 20) Switch bits & re-zero. 21) Using the 8mm bit, select "pocket" for the main pockets, and add a 0.05 offset. I did two passes, and extended the depth to 0.36". Cut out every pocket in a circular motion. 22) Switch to the ball nose bit. I used auto-pass to do my cuts to 0.36", and switched to an inside cut. The final pass will leave a nice round edge in the pocket. 23) Switch back to the engraving bit and engrave the small text in the center. Putting it Together 24) Sand the boards down to your desired smoothness 25) Clamp one board to a table and align plate to one side. 26) Using Shaper's hardware catalog, find the 100C saw hinge 27) Cut out to the dimensions and test fit 28) Repeat on the opposite side (left & right), and then the second board. 29) Test fit the hinges and make sure it aligns to the correct places' 30) Mark the screw holes, and drill out with a drill bit. You can take the hinges out after test fit. Finishing touches 31) Remove all dust from the grooves and boards. 32) Prep your stain and follow directions on the cans. 33) Leave overnight to dry, then reattach the hinges. 34) Paint the interior numbers with acrylic paint, color of your choice.