Clamping Rail

By Evelyn
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BY-NC-SA 4.0 License
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Updated Fri Jul 18 2025

A simple and elegant solution for hanging pictures, posters and postcards. They can be easily inserted into the slot between the two parts. In the front part there are pockets where the lower edge has a bevel. Metal balls inside slide down and press the paper gently against the wood, so that the picture holds and does not slip out. I chose the design and dimensions for a long, wide art print. The dimensions can of course be customized.

40 min
Easy

2

Decor

Files Included (2)

  • Clamping Rail Back.svg

    4 kB
  • Clamping Rail Front.svg

    6 kB

Materials

Plywood or hardwood in the dimensions you need.

- Back: Material thickness: 9mm (can be thinner/thicker)

- Front: Material thickness: 20 mm (can be thinner/thicker, just make sure that it's thick enough to make the pocket for the metal balls)

- Metal balls /bearings (I used ⌀10mm)

Tools

Shaper Origin

- 8mm up Spiral Router bit (you can also use the 6mm standard bit)

- 16mm Clearing Bit (optional but helpful)

- 12,7mm Coving Bit (other coving bits or even an engraving bit could work, is only for the rounding/chamfer inside the pockets)

Instructions

If you want to adjust the dimensions, you can find the Studio file here: https://hub.shapertools.com/design/687a0e9d3dcc784d833ee43c Preparation: Secure the sheet/material well to your sacrifice plate with clamps and double-sided tape so that nothing slips or flies away during milling. (I used pre-cut hardwood and secured it to the workstation's workpiece holder with double-sided adhesive tape. Since my piece was so long, I used two workstations side by side. I created a grid and placed the files one millimeter from the outer edges, so I only had to cut very little material. I used AutoPass and a 0.5mm offset for clean edges. ___________ Cutting: Back Part: The back part is simply cut out. I used the 8mm bit, but any other bit that you can use to cut the material well is suitable. Front part: The front part is a bit more complex. First cut the large pocket to a depth of 1 mm (1.5 mm is also possible if your paper is thicker). I used the 16 mm clearing bit, but also smaller bits are possible, it just takes longer. This pocket forms the slot so that you can insert the paper. Then cut all the small rounded rectangles with the coving bit. This is set as an inside cut and will create a pocket, where the metal balls will fit in. I set it to a final depth of 11mm. The metal balls should have minimal play and the paper must still fit in between, when you put the back-part on top. Finally, cut the outer contour. I used AutoPass, but you can also set the cut depth manually and leave a small offset, which you remove in the last pass to get a clean edge. _____ Do a test fit to make sure everything fits before removing the front part. Adjust the depth of the pockets for the balls if necessary. Slide a piece of paper into the slot and check that it fits well. Sanding: Sand all parts to a grain size of 250 and break the edges. Before gluing all the parts together, you can also stick them together with adhesive tape and test everything by holding the piece against the wall as it will hang later (this is the only way to ensure that the balls slide into the correct position). Gluing: Since the gluing surface is very small, I drilled two small holes through both parts (Make sure that you do not drill all the way through, but only enough so that the parts hold together.) on the left and right so that I can fix them with two screws when gluing. This prevents the parts from shifting due to the pressure of the clamps. Optional, you can round off the edges at the end with an edge router and a small radius. Finish: Remove any glue residue, sand again if necessary, and then oil everything. To hang it up, you can drill the existing screw holes a little larger so that you can use them to hang it on nails or screws.


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