1/5 scale Shaper sustainer and Shaper Origin

Instructions

BOX… I cut the lid first, but I had to shape shift the R to get a clean cut. And design the A(triangle) you’ll need to place the R over the existing letter. The lid has two perimeter paths. The inner path is to cut out the brand name indentations at a depth of .248in ( two in the front and one on each side) and the outer path is the full depth thickness of the wood at .28in The two notches for stacking sustainers are a depth of .062in The handle area cut out is a depth of .15in The logo area cut out is a depth of .014in The sides, front and back cutouts are all at a depth of .03in The front center cutout is at a depth of .1in I used a combination of cut types, inside, pocket etc. you’ll have to look at it to see which cut makes sense. The bottom piece is cut with these notes* left side, outside cut -.03 offset and the front is an offset of .04, the rest is an outside cut with no offset. The vacuum holes are at a depth of .20in. The Shaper indentation cut out depth is .13in. You can cut the hose ends according to what you use for a hose. The top handle has two little oval cut outs which I added after the fact. Place them where you think they best fit. They are at a depth of .05in. I sanded the shape of the handle by hand especially the bottom where it pivots. Once the shape was good I taped the handle into place and drilled tiny holes through the side of the sustainer lid into the handle on each side. After it is painted ( unless you want a natural wood finish) you will use the music wire as the hinge pin. I used a tiny amount of C.A glue to cover the holes. ( same process for the lid hinge) The front lock/latch pattern and arrows are engraved at .001-.005in. Depending on how your tool is set you may need to adjust that depth. I used a tooth pick and counter sunk a hole on the back of the latch, C.A glued it in and drilled the same size hole into the front of the lid. The tooth pick is .68in long and fits into the deep hole thats drilled into the lid. Thats how it turns. (I wanted to add an actual locking piece but I decided not to) The lid hinges are made from maple also, and pinned using the music wire, I doubled the wire for the lid. I cut the maple hinges .22in wide and it is .04in thick. You will cut the length to what you think is best. This was all done by hand. I glued the top of the hinges to the lid. Once the box was glued together and the lid set on top( hinges are glued very last, after paint), I taped the lid in place and block sanded the all of the angles on the sustainer. I used the lid as a guide. I also used the scrap piece from the 2nd base as my block. With the center cut out it was a great way to pinch the sandpaper for block sanding. SHAPER ORIGIN… For the router motor I designed a circle on the tool, diameter of .53in. or you can use a dowel. The base has a raised section which will stay and you will remove material around that at a depth of .07in. You’ll also use Shaper to cut the center hole out at the full depth. The vacuum hose connector was done on my lathe but you should be able to cut it out with Shaper. Outside diameter is .3in and inside is .21in. It’s two pieces .35in long cut at an angle then glued together. Sand and trim to fit The 2nd base is cut to the thickness of the wood in the Materials list, The Shaper screen is cut in two pieces and glued together then sanded. The screen angle was sanded with a 1’ belt sander at 49°. The Shaper handle was sanded to shape by hand then glued onto the screen piece. The shaper plug is cut at a depth of .19in, leaving the base around that at .22in thick. The hole for the wire was drilled by hand. That was painted and glued on last. The Shaper logo on the back of the screen piece is at a depth of .01in. The router clamp was with Shaper and a hand saw and sanded to get the final shape. There is also a 1/4” magnet counter sunk into the back of the router and a 1/4” magnet counter sunk into the back of the bracket. That is how the router floats just above the bracket and is removable. The bracket is glued to the screen piece. NOTE* most pieces are painted separately then glued together… The on/off and speed dial are cut at a depth of .02in. The holes on top of the router are at a depth of .018 and are all an inside cut. The collet with the nut is cut with the nut on the bottom and the center is cut at a depth of .07in, the nut is cut to the full depth of that piece. I used the Shaper engraver bit to cut a shallow depth on the cord for the router motor, to give it the counter sunk look. Then the center is drilled by hand for the wire. The plug on the screen piece is also drilled by hand. The two handle grips are sanded and shaped by hand, then glued to the handle brackets with thick C.A glue. Then hand sanded to shape. The orange and green buttons are tinted using acrylic paints. The plastic guard is .53in wide and roughly 2.5in long. That was cut with a straight edge, the cut outs were cut by hand and formed using a heat gun and scrap pieces from the 2nd base as the mold Cut out the pieces sand, sand and sand, paint then glue. I’m sure i missed some stuff but I hope this was helpful. It was a challenging build that took me 14 days to complete. The first couple days were measuring and designing the pieces with Shaper Labs. You can DM me @joediamond_products if you have any questions and show me your finished mini Shaper.