Cribbage Board

By Shane3
|
BY-NC-SA 4.0 License
|
Updated Mon Nov 04 2024

Rectangle Cribbage Board with storage in the middle and hidden magnets to hold the lid on. If you find anything wrong with the instructions, please let me know.

> 2 hr
Intermediate

17

Games

Files Included (7)

  • After cut of Top Piece - Front with Inlay.jpg

    4 MB
  • After Game Holes cut in Top Piece - Front.jpg

    5 MB
  • After Top Piece - Back is cut.jpg

    5 MB
  • Inlay Glued in Top Piece - Front.jpg

    4 MB
  • Lid - Back.svg

    21 kB
  • Top Piece - Front is Placed and Gridded - Magnet Holes Marked for Placement of SVG Only.jpg

    5 MB
  • Top Piece - Front.svg

    708 kB

Materials

Top, Bottom and Inlay pieces - material to be contrasting in some way.

Top Piece 3/4" - At least 14" x 7"

Bottom Piece 3/4" - At least 14" x 7"

Inlay Piece (Same type wood as bottom piece) < 1/8" - At least 13.5" x 6.5"

Lid 1/2" - At least 11" x 5"

3/16" Dowel for 4 marker holes

1/2" Dowel for 6 magnet holes on the lid

Master Magnetics - www.magnetsource.com - Neodymium Disc ND45-5020N, .5" diameter, .2" thick, 10.17 lb. pull

Tools

Shaper Origin

Other tools needed to cut initial pieces of wood.

Instructions

** Updated instructions and SVGs on 30OCT2024. Please review changes. ** Updated SVGs on 3NOV2024 due to 3 magnet holes not the correct size. Please review changes. 1. Cut Bottom Piece - Front a. Pocket out the circle and rectangle to .6" depth in increments of .125". (1/4" Bit) b. Change pocket cuts to inside cuts and cut the inside edges of the circle and rectangle. (1/4" Bit) c. Helix out the 4 marker holes to .25" depth. (1/4" Bit") (After cut, test fit dowel and use offsets if needed to make hole bigger.) d. Helix out the 6 magnet holes to .1" depth. (1/4" Bit") (After cut, test fit magnets and use offsets if needed to make hole bigger.) e. Cut the frame in .125 depth increments until the entire frame is cut out. (Outside Cut) (1/4" Bit) 2. Cut the Inlay (Use Top Piece - Front.svg) a. Measure inlay depth with calipers. b. Cut out the inlay using the information from step a. above. You will have to change the cut to a outside cut. (Outside Cut) (1/8" Bit) 3. Cut Top Piece - Back a. Helix out the 4 marker holes to .25" depth. (1/4" Bit") (After cut, test fit dowel and use offsets if needed to make hole bigger.) b. Helix out the 6 magnet holes to .125" depth. (1/4" Bit") (After cut, test fit magnets and use offsets if needed to make hole bigger.) c. Cut the frame in .125 depth increments until the entire frame is cut out. (Outside Cut) (1/4" Bit) 4. Cut Top Piece - Front a. Using the frame cut from step 3, scan and grid it. b. Import the svg (Top Piece - Front) and anchor the bottom left to x-0 y-0. I draw the magnet holes aligned from the back on the front to ensure I get correct placement of svg. c. Cut the circle and small rectangle in .125 depth increments until they are completely cut out. (Inside cuts) (1/4" Bit) d. Pocket out the larger rectangle in the center to .5" depth in increments of .125". (1/4" Bit) e. Change the pocket cut to a inside cut and cut the inside edge of the larger rectangle. (1/4" Bit) f. Pocket out the inlay to the depth measured in step 2a. If your inlay material is not exact depth all around, go with the thinnest measurement. (1/4" Bit) d. Change inlay to inside cut and cut the inside edge of inlay. (1/4" Bit) e. Test fit inlay from step 2. Careful not to force it. If needed use offsets and cut inside edge again until it fits perfect. (1/4" Bit) f. Glue in the inlay and let dry. g. If needed plane the face in very small increments to ensure the inlay is flat with the frame. h. If the piece was moved from steps f and g, tape down and re-grid the piece. Re-import the svg and ensure the next cuts are aligned correctly over the inlay. This can be done by conducting several manual z touches. If you do not check this, the holes have a possibility of being slightly off. j. Helix out the game holes to .375" depth. (1/8" Bit") k. Cut out the skunk lines to .030" if needed increase to .035" depending on what looks good after the cut. (V60 Engrave Bit) 5. Cut the Lid - Back a. Helix out the 6 magnet holes to .36" depth. (1/4" Bit") (After cut, test fit magnets and dowels. Use offsets if needed to make hole bigger.) b. Cut the lid frame in .125 depth increments until the entire lid is cut out. Don't forget the offset or your lid will be hard to remove. (Outside Cut, -.015 Offset) (1/4" Bit) 6. Glue magnets in lid. a. Place magnets in holes of lid (keep same polarity with each one) - no glue needed. b. Glue 1/2" dowel into hole. c. After dry time, flush cut the dowel. d. Sand lid. 7. Sand, Glue, Sand and Finish Board a. Sand. b. Place magnets in holes of the top piece - back. (Opposite polarity from step 6a.) - Best way is to position lid in the correct spot and then place the magnets. That will hold the lid in place and ensure you have the magnets set correctly. (No glue is needed for the magnets.) c. Place 3/8" dowels 1/2 inch long into the marker holes. d. Glue the bottom piece to the top piece utilizing the markers for position. Use plenty of clamps to get a good bond with the entire board. You do not want gaps showing at the seems of the 2 pieces. e. Sand some more. f. Finish with your favorite finish.


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