Personalized Kitchen Magnet

Instructions

This project contains an adaptive tool path for the inlay pocket. This works very well with AutoPass. Mount some acrylic for cutting. 1. Import magnet1 SVG over acrylic sheet 2. Cut engraving with V-groove bit 3. Cut circles with 1/8" diameter cutter 4. Release the parts from your spoilboard, add paint to the engraving (use rags and cotton swabs to clean up excess paint) 5. Set aside to dry Mount some ebony for cutting. 1. Import magnet2 SVG over Ebony 2. Cut both 0.04" encoded circles with V-groove bit 3. Helix both magnet holes (the 0.246" diameter holes) 4. Cut the outside rectangle with 1/8" diameter cutter 5. Release the single rectangular part from your spoilboard, flip it over, re-secure, rescan, and grid off the bottom-left corner HINT HINT HINT: The rectangle is small. At this point, what you want to do is take the waste wood that we cut the rectangle out-of and, after gridding, place the scrap near the rectangle as support for the Shaper Origin. This works well because we know the scraps will provide a co-planer support since we just cut the rectangle out of that exact same piece of wood. 6. Import magnet3 SVG placing custom anchor at 0,0 7. Cut the 4 micro-bevels (0.04" encoded circles) with V-groove bit 8. Pocket out the center of each magnet using 1/4" diameter bit NOTE: The pocket is not a pocket type cut. The pocket is encoded as an on-line cut that spirals around and then connects back to itself. This allows you to AutoPass the entire pocket in one plunge. It is recommended that you start the spiral at the center close to the straight-away so that the AutoPass ramp-in occurs on a linear path for smooth engagement (but if it pulls on the ramp, lower your plunge speed, which will elongate the ramp to make for smoother engagement). 9. Now perform a finishing pass on the pocket by cutting the circle behind the spiral as an inside cut (use varying offsets to sneak up on the final pass for ending pocket diameter of 1-1/4") 10. OPTIONAL (but recommended): Switch to 1/16" diameter cutter and set an offset of 0.01" and a depth of 3/8" + 1/32", then perform the same cut above. This channel at the bottom of the pocket has two purposes. First, it makes cleaning up the bottom of the pocket easier because you do not have to sand into the corner, but secondly, it gives the glue more surface area to grip onto, improving the strength of the inlay (it also doesn't look bad when viewed through the acrylic ... looks like an inset border, but it actually has a dual purpose other than looks). 11. Now, cut out each magnet using 1/8" diameter cutter. ASIDE: If you are using Ebony for this project, the values that worked for me were ... Spindle speed: 5 Auto feed: 7 Plunge speed: 2 Offsets: 0.01", 0.005", 0" Depths: AutoPass with per-pass depth between 0.048" and 0.061" (no advantage to going lower than 0.048", started to wear me out at 0.061" for extended periods). Now ... 12. Release the Ebony parts 13. Knock off any fuzz using 240# or 320# Aluminum Oxide (Burgundy in color) sandpaper 14. Burnish the outside diameter of the Ebony 15. Sand inside of pocket (going along the grain will get you there faster than swirling) 16. Apply finish And then assemble ... 1. Mix up some JB Kwik Weld 2. Use a toothpick to drop some in the hole 3. Push the magnets in 4. Use a cotton swap with mineral spirits or acetone to wipe up excess squeeze-out NOTE: If you use acetone in the last step, it will remove the finish in that area -- not to worry, just apply more -- alternatively you can apply finish after using epoxy to cement the magnet in, whatever works for you 5. Drop a healthy amount of clear gorilla glue into the pocket 6. Use a heat gun (on high) to carefully level the glue and rid it of air bubbles ASIDE: These are small parts, make sure to use a pencil or awl at the very least to make sure the heat gun doesn't blast it right off your workbench and onto the floor. 7. Drop some more of the same glue onto some painter's tape (that you will wad up and throw away when done) and also heat it up to make it smooth and bubble free 8. Press the backside of the acrylic (the colored engraving side) into the glue to coat it 9. Roll the edges of the acrylic in it and coat the sides of the inlay too 10. Now firmly press the acrylic into the pocket 11. Continue to press hard until you see squeeze-out above the surface of the inlay coming up around the sides and all the air from under the inlay has been pushed out 12. Use cotton swabs and either white or clear mineral spirits (DO NOT USE ACETONE) to clean up the excess glue ASIDE: If you use acetone here, it will cause the acrylic to "blush" (turn white). If this happens, you can fix it by using Meguiar's Solo cut and polish cream which is an automotive abrasive cream. Shake well, deposit a little on a micro-fiber cloth, rub it around on the cloth until all the cottage cheese-like lumps (the abrasive compound) are evenly distributed into a small area of the cloth, and then rub the acrylic in a circular motion over the blushing. In less than 60 seconds the blushing will be almost invisible to the naked eye (but if you want it gone for good, even under intense scrutiny, continue rubbing for a few more minutes). Mineral spirits unlike acetone will NOT make acrylic blush, FYI -- and Meguiar's Solo can also remove any scratches imparted by, say, paper towels used to wipe down acrylic, another FYI). The clear non-foaming recipe of Gorilla Glue is NOT a Cyanoacrylate based glue. It will not harden right away. Depending on the temperature of your shop, it will stay "open" for a good 10-20 minutes, but beware ... Even though it is not fully set for 2 hours, it takes on a gel-like state similar to rubber cement at about 20 minutes (again, depending on shop temp and humidity). Higher temps will make it cure faster. It takes 24H to fully become rock hard.