Veritas Bench Plane with Depth Skids v1.0

Instructions

VIDEO: https://youtu.be/yEZ4SBmoMvY FORUM: https://community.shapertools.com/t/veritas-bench-plane-with-depth-skids-gauges Approximate dimensions and weight* of final product: Height: 2.5" [1] Width: 2.5" [2] Length: 9.5" Weight*: ~1.95 lbs. [3] * Weight varies based on wood selected [1] With plane disassembled (blade, adjuster, and accessories removed) [2] Without accessories [3] Fully assembled with (incl.) depth skid/gauge accessories Depth skid/gauge height: 2.78" Depth skid/gauge width (each): 3/8" Depth skid/gauge length: 9.5" Blade width: 1.6" Blade thickness: 1/8" Blade height: 4.5" Pictured wood selections: Plane: Black Walnut Lever cap: Black Walnut Depth skids/gauges: Hard Maple Lumber needs (hardwoods work better than soft woods): Plane core: 27/32" thick [4] by at least 17" long by at least 4" wide Plane cheeks: 3/8" thick by at least 22" long by at least 3" wide Lever cap: 0.4" (or 13/32") [4] thick by at least 4" long by at least 2" wide Optional depth skids/gauges: ~1/2" thick by at least 12" long by at least 5" wide [4] Must be precise to within +/- 1/64" All lumber must be as flat and straight as possible before cutting with Shaper Origin. Steps: 1. Start by dimensioning the lumber to the above requirements TIP: The plane cheek lumber needs, in addition to being flat and straight, a well smoothed presentation side 2. Secure the plane core lumber, and place the "PlaneBody" SVG NOTE: Place it as far left as you can, leaving room for another exact copy of the SVG to be cut from the same lumber. 3. Helix the thru-holes first using 1/8" up-cut spiral router bit with 0.01" offset 4. Helix the thru-holes with 0.005" offset 5. Helix the thru-holes with 0" offset NOTE: These thru-holes must be very accurately helix'd as to snuggly accept a 1/4-20 threaded rod for alignment during glue-up/assembly 6. Cut the 1/16" deep glue channels that appear around the thru-holes We will now cut out the 2 pieces comprising the plane core from the plane core lumber. Switch to 1/4" up-spiral cutter. Since you will be cutting deep, a wider diameter bit will leave you with enough of a channel in the wood that you can use the Shaper Origin or Workstation T-handle Allen wrench with shop vac to clear packed swarf in-between passes. 7. Cut the outlines with a 0.01" offset and 0.25" depth, then 0.5" depth 8. Cut the outlines with a 0.005" offset and 0.75" depth 9. Cut the outlines with a 0" offset and 0.875" depth 10. Repeat steps 2-9 to to cut duplicates of the pieces you just cut (these will be laminated together in later steps) You should now have 2 pieces each of: a. Plane body front (curved plane escapement and palm horn with flat face) b. Plane body rear (45 degree blade bed with curved back) Switch to the 1/8" up-cut spiral bit. Optional step: 11. Take one plane body *front* piece and secure it face (side with the glue channel) down on your spoilboard 12. Create a grid anchored to the bottom left corner 13. Place the "Optional-PlaneBodyGlueFront" SVG, aligning the lower left corner to the piece 14. Cut the 1/16" deep glue channel You are done preparing the plane body *front* pieces which will need to be glued together. Optional step: 15. Take one plane body *rear* piece and secure it face (side with glue channel) down on your spoilboard 16. Create a grid anchored to the bottom left corner 17. Place the "Optional-PlaneBodyGlueRear" SVG, aligning the lower left corner to the piece 18. Cut the 1/16" deep glue channel You are done preparing the plane body *rear* pieces which will need to be glued together. When it comes to gluing the parts together, I recommend using cam clamps. They make the task incredibly easy. Here are the ones I use in the above video: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MZYGHJR/?coliid=IMARVHJKFT2W0&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 If you don't want to use cam clamps and you already have 1/4-20 threaded rod, you can use that. Just throw a hex nut and jam nut on one end of the threaded rod (or use a 4" or longer machine bolt with hex head), put a washer behind it, and use that instead of the cam clamps. 19. Thread the 1/4-20 threaded rod (either home made using hex/jam nuts, store bought with head, or a cam clamp) through the alignment hole of the plane body front piece which has glue channels on both sides. 20. Using a silicone spreader, spread Titebond III wood glue everywhere on the side where the threaded rod has the most length protruding, taking care not to get glue in the glue channel 21. Slide, slightly, the blank (no glue channel) side of the matching piece onto the threaded rod, take care not to press the pieces together yet 22. Set the assembly on a known flat surface 23. Slide the pieces together firmly, creating a small amount of glue squeeze-out on the edges of the mated surfaces 24. Clamp the pieces together 25. Come back in 20-40 minutes and use a chisel to remove the slightly hardened squeeze-out 26. Set clamped assembly aside to dry over-night 27. Repeat steps 19-26 with the plane body rear pieces Come back the next day after pieces have a chance to dry. Remove the clamps and 1/4-20 threaded rods. You should now have two distinct pieces. A plane body rear and plane body front. When we add the sides (aka cheeks) to the plane, then it will become a single piece (with the gap between the front and rear core pieces forming the mouth of the plane from which the blade will extend). 28. Sand assembled pieces, taking special care not to prematurely sand the sole of the plane. That will be sanded flat after we affix the cheeks to the plane in a later step. NOTE: This really needs to be done on a bench/belt sander to maintain angles and prevent dishing common to hand-sanding or using a random orbital sander (ROS). NOTE: Be very careful to remove as little material as possible throughout the entire process. 30. Stick your plane cheek lumber onto your spoilboard. 31. Place the "PlaneSideLeft" SVG onto the plane cheek lumber NOTE: You should still have 1/8" up-cut spiral bit installed NOTE: Leave room for an almost-identical (but flipped) SVG to be cut from the same lumber 32. Helix the 0.246" diameter thru-holes at 0.01" offset first 32. Helix the 0.246" dia. holes at 0.005" offset 33. Helix the 0.246" dia. holes at 0" offset 34. Helix the 1/4" thru-hole at 0.01" offset 35. Helix the 1/4" hole at 0.005" offset 36. Helix the 1/4" hole at 0" offset Switch to 3/4" cove/ball router bit. 37. Cut 1/8" deep contour grooves Switch to 1/4" up-cut spiral bit 38. Helix 0.265" hole at 0.01" offset 39. Helix 0.265" hole at 0.005" offset 40. Helix 0.265" hole at 0" offset 41. Cut outline at 1/4" deep with 0.01" offset 42. Cut outline at 5/16" deep with 0.05" offset 44. Cut outline at 7/16" deep with 0" offset You now have one cheek. 45. Place the "PlaneSideRight" SVG onto the same lumber 46. Repeat steps 32-44 You now have your second cheek. Now, we need to forcefully install 2 embedment nuts, one into each cheek. The embedment nuts (M5x6x7) go into the 0.265" diameter hole on each cheek. Use a piece of scrap wood and a mallet or small hammer to sink the nuts flush with the surface. !IMPORTANT! The embedment nuts must be installed on the side of the cheek that has no contours. This is the inside of the plane where the blade goes. The embedment nuts will hold set/grub screws close to the blade to secure it while in-use. 47. Install embedment nuts, one into each cheek, from the inside (non-contour) side of the cheek ASIDE: A Norris-style adjuster based hand plane needs these screws to make sure the blade does not shift when it enters the wood. These should not be considered optional components. Lee Valley does not mention them in the guide for building this hand plane, but all Lee Valley planes incorporate them because all Norris based planes should use them. 48. Using the vertical clamping abilities of the Shaper Workstation, clamp the plane body rear into the workstation so that the 45 degree angled blade bed is co-planer with the Shaper Tape on the Workstation 49. Create a grid anchored to the bottom-left of the piece 50. Place the "PlaneTopRear" SVG, aligning the bottom-left corner NOTE: You should still have the 1/4" up-cut spiral installed 51. Pocket out the oblong shape at 3/8" deep 52. Perform a finishing pass on the oblong shape by switching the cut from pocket to inside and using 0.01" offset, then 0.005", then 0" 53. Using various offsets, cut the 5/8" deep circle (which is 7/8" in diameter) Switch to 1/8" up-cut spiral 54. Helix the 1-1/4" deep hole at center (which is 9/64" in diameter) The plane body rear is now complete. HINT: Now would be a good time to test the Norris adjuster cup placement, flushness of blade against blade bed when sitting atop the adjuster, and make sure no movements are hindered. Do not put the screw into the adjuster cup just yet. Using the same glue-up procedure used to laminate the plane body pieces together, we will now attach the cheeks. 55. Insert a 1/4-20 threaded rod (cam clamp recommended) into both 0.246" diameter holes on the side (with contour grips) of one cheek 56. Spread glue on the plane body front, taking care not to get glue in the glue channel 57. Slide the plane body front onto corresponding threaded rod 58. While on a flat surface, press firmly to mate the two surfaces 59. Repeat steps 55-58 with the plane body rear You now have the plane mostly assembled. 60. Clamp the whole plane. 61. After about 20-40 minutes, use a chisel or chisel plane to remove excess squeeze-out 62. Let dry over night. Come back the next day. Now let's take the mostly assembled plane back to the Shaper Origin to increase the plane's capabilities. Switch to the 1/4" up-cut spiral bit 63. Place the "Optional-PlaneInsertLeft" SVG over the corresponding side of the plane, anchored to the bottom-left corner 64. Helix the 0.395" diameter holes at 0.01" offset 65. Helix the 0.395" dia. holes at 0.005" offset 66. Helix the 0.395" holes at 0" offset 67. Helix a relief at -0.55" offset at 1/8" depth for each of the 0.395" holes 68. Repeat steps 64-67 after placing "Optional-PlaneInsertRight" SVG over corresponding side We can now install 1/4-20 threaded inserts into what used to be the assembly alignment holes. These 1/4-20 threaded inserts can be used for fences, depth skids, and more accessories. 69. Drive a 1/4-20 threaded rod through the entire width of the plane, in one cheek and out the other 70. Attach a threaded insert onto one end, but keep it close to the end so you can still fit the Allen key into the end of the threaded-insert 71. Attach a washer (first), hex nut, and jam nut to the other 72. Snug the washer up to the cheek 73. Snug the hex nut up to the washer 74. Jam the jam nut against the hex nut 75. Place an open-ended crescent wrench or adjustable wrench on the jam nut 76. Apply opposing turning forces across the threaded rod to drive the threaded insert into the wood NOTE: This ensures that the threaded insert is driven into the wood exactly perpendicular without tilting or becoming distorted 77. Repeat steps 69-76 for the other alignment hole (0.395" diameter) You now have threaded inserts installed on one side of the hand plane. Remove the threaded rods, flip the plane over to the other side. 78. Insert the threaded rod into one of the two installed threaded-inserts 79. Thread the rod through the entire plane to the point where you can barely attach a threaded insert onto the rod on the other side of the plane 80. Lock a hex nut onto the threaded rod flush against the (already installed) threaded insert 81. Slowly turn the (new; to-be installed) threaded insert onto the rod and into the wood NOTE: As you advance the threaded inserts, you may have to back out the rod. 82. Repeat steps 78-81 for the last remaining threaded-insert to install. You now have a plane with 1/4-20 threaded inserts which have been thread-matched the width of the plane and will accept a fully threaded rod or a set of 4 socket cap (for example) 1/4-20 machine screws for attaching accessories (such as a fence or depth skids/gauges). So let's build some depth skids/gauges. 83. Place the "Optional-PlaneDepthSkids" SVG on the depth skid/gauge lumber NOTE: You should still have the 1/4" up-cut spiral bit installed 84. Cut the L-shaped thru-channels first 85. Cut the 1/16" deep reliefs 86. Cut the outline using multiple passes at 0.01" offset 87. For the second-to-last pass, reduce offset to 0.005" 88. For the last pass (the one that releases the pieces) reduce offset to 0" You now have two depth skids. Let's upgrade those depth skids to depth gauges by engraving a ruler on the inside faces. 89. Flip the left depth skid over, secure it, and place the "Optional-PlaneDepthSkidsRearLeft" SVG over it, anchoring to the lower-left corner Switch to the 60-degree V-groove engraving bit 90. Engrave ruler/markings at 0.01" depth and the "L" at 0.02" depth HINT: To make sure the Origin is hitting the proper depth, sneak up on it from a negative depth. NOTE: The depth matters because we are going to infill these markings with paint 91. Repeat steps 89-90 with the right skid and the SVG "Optional-PlaneDepthSkidsRearRight" You now have marked skids, but the markings are hard to read. 92. Mark off areas around the engravings with painters tape or frog tape (recommended) 93. Spray 3 thin coats (separated by 10-15 minutes) of clear Rustoleum enamel 94. Let that dry for 3-6 hours 95. Apply black gloss enamel over the markings 96. Lightly wipe off surrounding excess immediately (careful not to wipe off too closely to the engravings or you could potentially soak up paint in the engraving) 97. Let dry for 3-6 hours and re-apply another coat, lightly wiping off surrounding excess immediately 98. Let dry 3-6 hours and re-apply another coat, the same way 99. Let dry over night 100. Apply 3 more thin coats of clear enamel as done in step 93 101. Let dry over night 102. Remove tape and sand off excess (leaving only infill in the engraved markings) NOTE: Try to keep the area flat by using a belt/bench sander (e.g., 4 x 36) You now have depth skids/gauges. Can't use the plane yet though, because you need a lever cap to hold the blade down. 103. Secure the lever cap lumber This part is small, and the forces generated cutting it can be large, so it is recommended you use your strongest solution for securing this piece. Carpet tape does fine and the way I recommend cutting it below will reduce the forces involved, but if need-be, you can use painter's tape and CA glue in a pinch. You're not going to be able to hold this one with surface clamps (or at least, I can't envision how it would be done). Switch to 3/4" cove/ball router bit. 104. Cut the 5/64" deep contour which will press against the brass cross-pin already epoxied into the plane Switch to 1/8" up-cut spiral bit NOTE: It is very important to use the 1/8" bit and not the 1/4" bit here 105. Cut the outline with 0.01" offset and at 1/8" depth, then 1/4" depth 106. Cut the outline with 0.005" offset and at 3/8" depth 107. Cut the outline with 0" offset at 7/16" depth 108. Keeping the lever cap shape attached to the spoilboard, remove from the spoilboard the unused wood Switch to 1" spoilboard clearing bit SAFETY: Turn your spindle speed all the way down to 1 NOTE: The path in the SVG is designed to account for the lack of plunging capability of these bits and as-such starts offset, utilizing air-space around the shape created in step 108 above. 109. Cut the 3/64" deep path You can now release the lever cap shape. 110. Flip the lever cap shape over and re-secure it NOTE: You may need to stick 4 playing cards under the back end of the lever cap to account for the 3/64" relief below the contour that we cut in step 109 111. Place the "PlaneLeverCapRear" SVG over the secured piece, anchored to the lower-left corner Switch to the 1/4" up-spiral router bit. 112. Helix the 0.381" diameter thru-hole with a 0.01" offset 113. Helix the 0.381" thru-hole with a 0.005" offset 114. Helix the 0.381" hole with a 0" offset 115. Next, cut the 1/2" diameter relief at a depth of 0.055" We now have the shape of a lever cap, which is not yet finished. 116. Using your benchtop 4 x 36 belt sander, optionally with miter gauge, bevel the end of the lever cap to 30 degrees HINT: Take a marking gauge and mark 1/16" along the edge up from the bottom of the lever cap and also mark 1/2" up the face from the leading edge. If you sand or chisel/pare mark-to-mark, that will produce a 30 degree bevel. HINT: You can also either change the angle of incline of the rest on your bench sander, or if you cannot do that but have a miter gauge, set the miter gauge to 30 degrees. Time to round the edges. I do not round over the edges of the plane sole, nor do I round over the edges of the sole on the depth skids/gauges. Those edges stay sharp but, above the soles, I will round over everything else. 117. Round over the edges (but not the soles) of the plane, depth skids/gauges, and the face side of the lever cap to 1/16" radius (leave the edges on the back of the lever cap sharp) 118. Round over the edges (but not the soles) of the plane and depth skids/gauges to 1/8" radius 119. Round over the edges (but not the sole) of the plane to 3/16" 120. Round over the edges (but not the sole) of the plane to 1/4" NOTE: The reason for using 1/16" increments is to prevent any kind of mistake that would damage the wood. Different species and hardness of wood react differently to aggressive rounding over, so I don't just go straight to 1/4" unless I know the wood can take it. With over 100 steps performed on the plane already, it is advisable to do the above to prevent loss of work or increased work. Take the extra time to do the round overs in 1/16" increments unless you are certain you can skip these increments. 121. Apply 2-part epoxy to the Veritas lever cap insert and push it into the lever cap from the rear 122. Use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean up any excess epoxy The brass cross-pin that comes with the Lee Valley kit won't fit. 123. Cut with a hacksaw a length of 1/4" brass rod that is about 1/16" to 1/8" proud of the width of the plane 124. Using your bench/belt sander, incrementally sand the rod ends to fit 125. Use epoxy and a Q-tip to cement the brass rod into the 1/4" diameter holes on each side of the plane, armed with some 91% isopropyl alcohol (and more Q-tips) to clean up any excess Now it's time to apply finish before we assemble the rest of the plane. 126. Hand sand all parts up to 220 grit and then final grit(s) as-desired 127. Using Q-tips, shop rags, and a spray bottle filled with 91% isopropyl alcohol, wipe down all surfaces 128. Using Q-tips and shop rags, apply Watco Danish Oil or desired finish 129. Wipe clean and let dry 130. Repeat steps 128-130 until desired finish is reached 131. Apply Minwax paste wax to: a. sole of the plane b. sole of the depth skids/gauges c. blade bed in the plane (makes it easier to make adjustments to blade depth when the lever cap is under tension, meaning you do not have to loosen the lever cap as much to make adjustments) d. shaving escapement (makes shavings and dust slide out easier) 132. Apply furniture wax to the remaining parts of the plane and depth skids/gauges (not the areas where paste wax was applied) 133. Apply furniture wax to the lever cap 134. Repeat above step to apply a second coat after first coat is dry We can now assemble the plane. 135. Insert the stainless steel adjuster cup into the hole bored for it 136. Drive the adjuster cup screw into the pilot hole at the center of the adjuster cup 137. Thread the larger bushing with press-fit magnet onto the larger threads of the threaded depth adjuster rod 138. Thread the smaller bushing onto the smaller threads of the threaded depth adjuster rod 139. Place the larger bushing with magnet into the adjuster cup, magnet side down into the cup 140. Place the blade with the sharp side down into the mouth, seating the lower 1/4" hole onto the small bushing crown ASIDE: This is a bevel-down plane. The Veritas logo should be facing the blade bed and not be visible when the blade is properly installed into the plane. 141. Place the lever cap atop the blade, bevel pointed toward the mouth, behind the brass cross pin, such that the divot makes contact with the cross pin 142. Insert the knurled brass thumb screw to the lever cap threaded insert and tighten it "finger tight" to apply downward pressure to the blade Optionally: 143. Install the depth skids/gauges using 1/4-20 socket cap screws 144. Adjust depth skid/gauge height and tighten the screws You are now ready to plane. Enjoy! ADDENDUM(parts): Plane kit: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/maintenance-and-accessories/71379-veritas-wooden-plane-hardware-kit?item=05P4043 Brass cross pin: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KR2SVCC/?coliid=I2TQO2PPDR195F&colid=LQOO83B8GR1V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Grub/Set screws (for adjustable blade alignment): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RZPYVTL/?coliid=I12BWNLXLTYCBU&colid=LQOO83B8GR1V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Embedment nuts (for grub/set screws): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KS8KZRW/?coliid=I31O33TJ8P0SAR&colid=LQOO83B8GR1V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 3/4" ball router bit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001A0M00M/?coliid=I2G1RDBA24GXJS&colid=LQOO83B8GR1V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1/16" radius round over bit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002C9BPQ/?coliid=IH592PXUCYK2V&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16" radius round over bits: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08FT4M31S/?coliid=I24Y7VYVE2GZFC&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1" spoil board clearing router bit (for cutting lever-cap): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08SKYYN7P/?coliid=I1SSBMGQUY2J13&colid=LQOO83B8GR1V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Watco Danish Oil: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00176TCU0/?coliid=I12I2B3GXTMM8I&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Furniture wax: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001DSQDS6/?coliid=I1OHYJQWCKAK4B&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1/4-20 threaded inserts: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B084DNJBKJ/?coliid=I2DD2EFUXFO4H5&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1/4-20 6" threaded rod (for glue-up): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00L1L6ZY2/?coliid=I24L6VID604M18&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 1/4-20 cam clamps (for glue-up): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRNMD7/?coliid=IMARVHJKFT2W0&colid=3TYU7GZOKO7QA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it BONUS CONTENT Care and cleaning: Mineral Spirits (MS) are suitable for cleaning all surfaces. After cleaning with MS, re-apply: + paste wax as described above + beeswax as described above Periodically add beeswax to feel. Using your new hand plane: The hand plane may look like a traditional bench plane but it is certainly not. The front of the plane has been elongated, tilted forward (1/2-degree), and exhibits a low-profile horn for hooking your palm and thumb around. While it is possible to rest your palm directly in front of the shaving escapement, the better way to grip the plane is to place your thumb behind the palm horn, letting your fingers wrap around the front of the plane. This provides forward locomotive force in such a way that you can pull the plane forward with ease while keeping the blade in the cut. In American hand planes, the main locomotive force is generated with a push compared to a Japanese Kanna plane which is designed to be pulled. This plane is designed to be pushed and pulled at the same time, with the majority of force at the front of the plane. This may seem odd until you put the plane to wood and plane something. Bonus Accessory: Unlike the Bridge City Tool Works HP-12 hand plane which boasts: "The single distinguishing feature of the HP-12 over any other plane made today is the ability to add depth skids; essentially turning your plane into a 2" thickness planer." The depth skids on this plane have a built-in ruler on their inside faces to make it easier to setup your plane for thicknessing. No longer do you have to fumble for a combination square or some stock that is the thickness you desire to set the skids. Attach the skids/gauges to the plane, tighten the set screws with your hand, cinch them down with an Allen wrench, and start planing. You still have the option of using another piece of stock to set the depth skids, but once-set you also have a ruler to tell you the thickness of that material without having to measure the skids themselves with another layout tool. The soles of the depth skids should *NOT* be rounded (unlike BCT) to better aid in the feeling of "plumb" and to prevent tipping. A square sole is much harder to tip than a rounded one. The skid soles should be burnished to a smooth and hard finish for durability. Additional Accessories: The 1/4-20 threaded inserts installed on the side of the plane are "thread-matched" to each other if you use the above described assembly method. It is possible, with a little effort, to turn a fully threaded rod into one insert and out of the opposing insert, without cross-threading. This is achieved by using the above novel assembly approach which aligns the threads of the inserts onto a single threaded rod when being driven into the side of the plane. The ability to run a fully threaded rod side-to-side through the plane means you can create very interesting accessories. Since 1/4-20 was the chosen thread/rod size, a fair amount of distance can be achieved from the side of the plane for accessories that extend the width of the plane. Threaded inserts are epoxied-in and extend a full 3/4" into the side of the plane for added stability. The type of epoxy suggested is JB Weld Kwik Weld with a holding strength of 3,127 PSI. This same epoxy should be used to affix the cross pin to the plane. About the construction: It took 30 days to design and 30 days to build, but I suspect it will take much less time for anyone using these already made designs. I dimensioned the lumber by hand using: 1. Japanese Ryoba pull saw for resaws 2. DIY thicknessing jig made out of 2x4, steel angle stock, and trim router 3. Stanley No 8 type 11 plane for flattening 4. Veritas No 4 plane for smoothing 5. Veritas apron plane for removing plane tracks 6. 3M Cubitron 400 grit sandpaper 7. Winding sticks and 24" Starrett ruler for checking for flatness/twist ... and the tools I used for the remaining tasks: 8. Shaper Origin for cutting parts and making holes 9. Shaper Workstation for engravings 10. Ryobi trim router for roundovers 11. Ball router bit 12. Spoilboard clearing bit 13. 1/4" spiral bit 14. 1/8" spiral bit 15. Roundover bits (1/16", 1/8", 3/16", 1/4") 16. Bucktool bench belt sander with 220 grit belt See also "Tools" and "Materials" at-left.