Combination Sandal Square

Instructions

Perform the engravings with the 60-degree V-groove bit first. To get the engraving depths accurate, start at 0 depth and sneak up on the acrylic. When you touch the protective paper, back off by one increment (e.g., 0.001" if working in inches). Then add the thickness of the protective paper (on Chemcast brand acrylic, the paper is 0.004" and the glue holding the paper to the plastic is 0.001", so to get past the glue/paper you need to add 0.005"). You can simply peel a little of the paper backing off, measure it with a set of calipers, and use that as your offset to add. The goal is to add 0.01" for the engraving plus the thickness of the paper plus the offset that is required to make your first mark on the protective paper. Sneaking up on the cut like this and adding these values together will ensure that the engravings produce the desired line-thickness. Use a 1/2" or smaller diameter bit capable of bottom-clearing to pocket out the fence to make the swarf-relief. You can use the 1/4" up-cut spiral bit provided with Shaper Origin to do this. The bottom of the relief does not need to be perfect. You can polish it after with sandpaper and cut/polish cream once the tool is assembled. Engraving the ruler (looking at the screen): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKbWGnTojkI&t=38s Engraving the ruler (looking at the bit): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwWSkcELS7I&t=33s Once the engraving and infill have been done, then cut out the pieces. Once the pieces are cut out, add your infill to the engravings. Applying infill to engravings in plexiglass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsg4S4jbRcQ&t=6s Use mineral spirits to wipe up any paint that gets on the non-glossy (read: rough) edges of the plexiglass. Use Q-tips as necessary to clean up if-desired, but a shop towel works fine. The chemical solvent used to weld plexiglass (a brand of acrylic) does not interact with electrical tape. Whatever material you expect to come into contact with the solvent should be covered in electrical tape to prevent marring the surface of the plexiglass. How to weld the small parts together: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOUMcQodNZE&t=26s You can use a small scrap block with a mitered edge and some double stick tape to make it easy to obtain a right angle when gluing (as shown in the above video). It only takes a few (15) seconds for the chemical bond to become strong enough to handle delicately. It takes an hour for it to be strong enough to handle rigorously, but just be aware that it takes 24h to fully cure. A clamp is not necessary, but does produce a better looking bond, if you can. The scroll decoration is not just decorative. It provides an "X" that marks the center which aligns with the "2" mark on the ruler, which is also the center of that face. The "X" therefore allows you to find center along the saddle. There is a bit of hidden metric in the spiral. Placing the spiral over a ruler with mm marks shows that you can use it for rough estimating millimeters by placing an item under either spiral. Here is a link to the handle for purchase from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07X334N3P/?coliid=I2UL85C4XWLRP4&colid=3CZSHPW4I970J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it To attach the handle, you need to first sand down the bottom to create a rough surface to bind with the solvent. Some #80 sandpaper does fine to rough-up the area. You do not need to rough up the surface that you will bond to, only one of the two surfaces has to be rough. To attach sandpaper, use double-sided scotch tape. More photos: https://twitter.com/freebsdfrau/status/1411512151253032960?s=20