Tic Tac Toe

12" - 2" x 10" stock 24" - 1" X 11" stock (preferably glued up to achieve the thickness

Shaper Origin Shaper Work Station 1/4" Shaper Bit Table Saw Sander Planer (not necessarily required) Router on Router Table (could be cut freehand) Router bit (with bearing if no router table fence of by freehand) Wood Glue Masking Tape Salt (trust me)

- Glue up the 1" stock to have an overall length of 24", then cut it to end up with 2 - 1"x 12" pieces, then plane to 3/4" thick (or glue and sand really well) - Set up the Shaper and the Shaper Work Station (can be done without the Work Station) and remove the material around the X's and O's with a pocket cut on the 2" stock (that said, the reverse could be done by cutting out the X's and O's with a pocket cut however, you would want to finish with a 1/16" bit for greater definition) using the 1/4" bit, leaving the piece whole for ease of use . Once the X's and O's have been cut out, cut the individual blocks out on the table saw - I cut them to 2-5/8" x 2-7/8". ***I plotted 6 X's and 6 O's on the file to accommodate square stock. This gives provides a spare X and a spare O if you pooch one, but they can be overlooked if you have no issues ***After removing the material from around the X's and O's, may want to do another pass .002" deeper to make sanding easier, but totally optional. - Pocket cut the pockets on one of the 1" x 12" pieces of stock, 1/4" deep, then trim the edges for a 3/8" circumference on the table saw around the outside of the pockets (go wider if you prefer) - I designed to pockets to be 5/16" wider and longer than the blocks. I did this because I don't expect that anyone playing the game would be places the blocks too gingerly, so I thought that I would give it some extra space. You can modify this to any size you wish. - Cut the second piece of 1" x 12" stock so that it is 1-1/4"" wider and longer than the piece with the pockets, and then rout the edges with whatever profile you prefer. ***use a practice piece to rout with because the depth and width of the profile will vary. This has nothing to do with the Shaper portion of the build, just basic woodworking*** - Lay the pocketed piece on top of the base and mark the base. I took the extra step of taping the base and the sides of the pocketed piece to make lining up the two pieces up easier, and to prevent the glue from running. Apply a thin layer of glue to the base, and then lightly sprinkle with a small amount of salt (the salt is a pretty cool woodworking hack - it will prevent the two pieces from hydroplaning (aquaplaning in the UK), or otherwise sliding around while you applying pressure when clamping. The salt should dissolve while clamped). Clamp and let set overnight - Sand, seal, and finish as you desire ***you will require 5 X's, and 5 O's, although there are only 9 pockets, depending on who's winning (the X's or the O's) and if they go to a full board***