Paper Roll Holder For French Cleat Created by BodgedButWorks — My design for a french cleat paper roll holder. If you prefer a video over the written todo list below, the accompanying project walkthrough might be for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWktaLUlc7Y Have fun and wash your hands - drying them was never more satisfying ;)
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Paper Roll Holder For French Cleat

By BodgedButWorks|BY-NC-SA 4.0 License|Updated April 5th, 2022

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My design for a french cleat paper roll holder. If you prefer a video over the written todo list below, the accompanying project walkthrough might be for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWktaLUlc7Y Have fun and wash your hands - drying them was never more satisfying ;)

2 hr

Intermediate

75

Files included (6)
NameSize
Paper Roll Holder - Separation Plate Contour.svg
5 kB
Paper Roll Holder - Separation Plate Joint.svg
3 kB

- 10mm plywood - Wooden rod, diameter 28mm (or whatever fits your paper roll) - 6mm cutter - 3mm cutter for more detail on zigzag tear-off edge - Engraving bit for logo, if desired
- Shaper Origin - Shaper Workstation - Shaper T-Shirt (mandatory)
Disclaimer: I took my time while cutting and used the standard 6mm end mill. Using a roughing bit and/or a soft wood might decrease your total cutting time for this project. The design is for a paper roll with a diameter of 190mm and a width of 215mm. My wall cleats are 18mm thick, 50mm high, and have a 55mm spacing measured between the bottom of one cleat and the top edge of another. If the ledge on the bottom of the paper roll holder conflicts with your cleat spacings, you might want to omit it. Secure your plywood to your work surface. I double-sided-taped mine to an underlying spoilboard. Perform the scan, then place all 'Contour' parts (1xSeparation Plate, 2xSide Panel, 2xSpacer) onto your workpiece. The left and right side panels look nice if you mirror one so that they have the same grain on the outside. If desired, use the engraving bit to cut your logo into the paper towel rippy thingy (as I like to call it). Switch to the 3mm cutter and craft the spikes of the aforementioned part. The rest of the outline (everything on that part that's not a spike) can be cut later on with the 6mm bit in favor of speed, so you can retract after you're done with the spikes. Transitioning to the 6mm mill, cut the remaining slots and circles. After that, cut all part outlines. I did mine with 3mm depth passes (3mm-6mm-9mm) using an offset of 0.5mm. The last pass (10mm depth) was done without any offset to refine the part edges. Cut the wooden rod to a length of 255mm using a saw. Set up your Workstation. Fasten one of the rectangular 'spacer' parts using the vertical alignment pins and the support bar to have it flush with the Workstation surface. Scan and set your grid by touching the sides of the spacer. Mill the joint with a depth of 10mm (=the thickness of the plywood). If you're unsure if you've set your grid correctly, do a test pass in Aircut mode first. After the first joint is finished, test fit it with one of the side panels. I ended up using a 0.1mm offset to get a snug fit. Repeat for both sides of both spacer pieces. The same principles apply to the hinge joints on the separation plate (the spiky one), only with a different SVG. Finally, cut the circles into the wooden rod. I didn't use a grid for that, but rather centered the cut path by eye. Sand all parts and assemble the holder. The hinge joints might need some extra sanding. Have fun with your new paper dispenser ;) - Oliver