Z-touch Improvement Plate

By Wayne20
|
BY-NC-SA 4.0 License
|
Updated Tue Aug 12 2025

A gadget that places an LED inside the base opening of SO. The LED illuminates the bit during a manual Z-touch. The SO sits on a nice flat aluminum plate, helping to acheive Z-touch accuracy.

20 min
Easy

3

Tools

Files Included (1)

  • Upper ply.svg

    1 kB

Materials

Aluminum plate, 8 by 12 (nominal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4D8CDP7?ref=fed_asin_title

5-volt LED bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYWC9YT?ref=fed_asin_title

USB-A plug

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FF883CX?ref=fed_asin_title

Solder

Heat shrink tubing

"Upper" Plywood (to frame aluminum plate), 11 by 15 by 1/2

"Lower" Plywood (for the bottom), 11 by 15 (you choose thickness)

Wood Glue

Hot glue

Shaper tape and clear packing tape

Tools

Shaper Origin

1/8th bit

Hand Drill

3/8ths bit to cut aluminum (cobalt works well)

Cutting oil is nice when drilling aluminum

Soldering Iron

Pin nailer (or clamps)

Hot glue gun

Instructions

The upper ply ought to be the same thickness as your aluminuim plate. I used 1/2 for both. I think 1/4 would work too. (1/8th might be too thin? I don't know). Check the size of your aluminum plate. Mine was smaller than the nominal 8 by 12. You want to cut the window in the upper ply to give a snug fit for the aluminum plate. The opening on the project file is 11.84 by 7.84, and that OUGHT to be smaller than the aluminum as a starting point. But who knows how much the size varies from plate-to plate. So check before you cut. The idea is to test fit, use a negative offset, test fit again and repeat until you get a snug fit (like you were doing an inlay). Drill a 3/8ths hole in the aluminum plate. For a Generation 1 SO, the hole ought to be centered 2.5 inches from the bottom of the plate and about 4 5/8ths inches from the LEFT side of the plate. The idea is that the right side of the hole will be just about congruent with the right side of the base opening in the SO when the SO is sitting on the plate. I don't know if the measurement for a Gen 2 will be different. Insert the aluminum plate into the upper ply. The hole in the aluminum plate ought to be on the right side (towards the half-circle cut out in the upper plywood). Center the upper ply/aluminum on the lower ply. Mark the hole in the aluminum plate and the half circle onto the lower ply. Measure the location of the mark for the hole -- it will be around 3.5 inches from the bottom of the lower ply and about 6 1/8 from the LEFT of the lower ply. Use on-tool design to cut a slot 3.5 wide, 1/8th high and 1/8th deep -- the slot will connect the marks you made for the hole and the half circle. The slot will be used to route the wires for the LED. Also use on-tool design to cut 2 holes through the ply, each 3/4 diameter. These will be be finger holes to make it easier to push out the aluminum plate if needed to service the LED. The holes ought to be about 4 and 8 inches from the bottom of the ply. If you bought the same LED and USB plug as me, you'll need to solder and insulate them. Test when you're done (especially if you are as bad at soldering as I am). Line up the LED wires in the 1/8th slot and glue the ply pieces together. I used pin nails to hold them while the glue dried (clamp if you don't have a pin nailer). See the video for the alignment of the LED bulb on the aluminum plate. Hold it in place with hot glue. Add Shaper Tape and clear packing tape to protect the Shaper Tape. You can scan and make a dedicated workspace for the Z Touch Plate. The video has a demonstration of how its used.


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