Safari Frame

Instructions

This project has fairly detailed multi-part inlays. If you have not sucessfully done an inlay with SO, I suggest trying something simpler to start. Measurements are in inches. Mill the positive inlay parts from 1/8th thick dark wood (I used walnut). Long edges should line up with the grain. Don't use any offset. Some of the edges have an adjustment built into the file to help the fit where those edges intersect other positive inlay parts, so if you use offset you'll get a gap. (FYI, the files having that adjustment include "trim" in the title.). I suggest you mark the number of each positive part in pencil on the top. Makes them easier to place. Make a mitered frame from 4 inch wide light colored wood (I used maple). Long sides are 38.75, short sides are 28.75. Should leave an opening of 30.75 by 20.75. (After the inlay work is done an inside border will be added so the final opening will be a litle less than the print size.) Make a 19 1/2 by 29 1/2 (approx) tape board the thickness of the frame (for me, 3/4). Secure the tape board to a work surface large enough to support the entire frame. Secure the frame right side up to the work surface. Note that you'll want to be able to access all 4 sides when milling the negative for the inlay Grid so the x axis is a short side and the y axis is a long side. I'm calling the 0,0 point on that grid the lower left of the frame. But that only matters for placing the inlay -- you can hang the frame however you like when you are done. There are more details below, but the basic procedure is that you will complete the negative inlay for one side of the frame, then move on to the next side. For instance, start with the "Bottom Negatives 10-12" file. That file will be placed along the X axis of your grid. Import the file, and place it at 0,0 using the custom achnor point. Mill those negatives. The negatives file includes extra clearance room so the bit can cleanly exit the frame. Use the positive pieces to test the fit; add a little negative offset as needed (you'll probably need -.003 to -.005). (Remember that if you start with a "Pocket" cut you have to finish with an "Inside" cut. A "Pocket" cut will not clear all the way to the edge of the file.) Almost all of the negatives can be cut with a 12mm bit if you have one, with only a tiny clean up using a 1/4 inch bit. Woodpeckers sells a nice 12 mm bit that has an 8 mm shank. Alternatively, a 16 mm bit cuts the majority with somewhat more cleanup using a 1/4 inch bit. Or you can take forever using a 1/4 bit for the whole thing. When you are done with Bottom Negatives 10-12, go back to the Design screen, delete that file from the workspace and erase the cut history. BUT! Don't change the grid-- you'll use the same grid to place the other three negatives files. Move the SO physically 90 degrees so you are facing the center of the frame from the left side of the frame. I suggest you perform an "Add to Scan" from the left side, facing the center of the frame. You are not adding more tape, just making sure the SO is oriented from the left of the frame. BUT don't change the grid. Place the "Left Negatives 13-18" at 0,0 using the custom anchor. Now mill that negative and fit the corresponding positives. Repeat the 90 degree move and the add to scan for the "Top Negatives 1-3" file. Mill those negatives and fit the positives. Then repeat the 90 degree move (etc.) for the right side of the frame. The Safari Frame Inlay Map includes numbers that correspond to the numbers of the inlay positives. It may be helpful to have a print of the map when fitting the inlay parts. Glue the inlays when you like the fit. Next mill wood for an inside border. It will have a rabbet to hold the artwork. If needed, you can adjust the width of the inside border to make sure your artwork wil fit. I had to make mine about 1/8th wider than originally planned, because the inside opening on the main part of the frame was a little bit bigger than originally planned. Mill a 3/16ths deep by 1/4 inch wide rabbet on the wide inch edge of the dark wood strip. Optional - mill (or plane) a small chamfer on the wide edge above the rabbet. Look at the "Border orientation" pdf if you need orientation to mill the rabbet and chamfer. Miter the inside border pieces so you can attach them to the inside of the frame so the rabbet is facing down and inside, with the wide edge of the border attached to the inside edge of the frame. If you are like me you'll need to fiddle a lot to get the miter fit right. The border ought to be flush with the top edge of the frame and also flush (or very close to flush) with the bottom edge of the frame. The "Border orientation" pdf shows what it ought to look like. Glue the inside border to the inside of the frame (a pin nailer is helpful to secure it). Add hardware for hanging and artwork. Finished!