Fridge Magnet Display

Instructions

I suggest you start with the frame. I made mine on a table saw. The inside dimensions are 22.5 by 10.5, because it needs a pretty large overlap with the 12 by 24 steel sheet. My stock was 1 5/8ths wide, so the outside frame dimensions were a little less than 26 by 14 (but the inside dimension matters more than the exact outside). Mill the frame parts to thickness and width, and chamfer the edges. I used 3/16ths chamfers on both the outside and inside edges. I would not go any larger on the chamfers -- you need to leave room for a 10 mm dowel hole on each end of the frame. The frame is two sided, so make the chamfers on all edges (there is no front and back). Miter the frame ends to length (like you are making a picture frame). Use the table saw to cut a 1/8th wide by 13/16ths deep dado in the center of the inside edges of all the frame parts. The steel sheet will slip in the dado when you assemble the frame. Use the workstation and SO to cut 10MM dowel holes in the center of each of the short frame pieces. Measure the outside short frame edge to determine the center, then use a grid to place the 10MM hole right in the center using on-tool design. Use a dowel to test the fit (snug but not so tight you crack the wood). Do any needed cleanup on both sides of the steel plate. Mine was really dirty, so I used an angle grinder with flap discs for gross clean up, then sanded with an ROS. The goal is to make it look clean, but expect a lot of ripples. (I did not try for a polished finish.) Assemble the frame around the steel sheet (slip the steel into the dadoes). Glue the wood miters only, not the steel. At this point, the steel will be loose in the frame, and the whole thing is temporarily pretty fragile. Next step is to use sex bolts to secure the steel sheet in the frame. Tape the steel to the frame to try to keep the steel from shifting. Use a drill press or drill jig to drill a 1/4 inch hole that will go through the frame and the steel plate. Install a sex bolt and shoulder screw in the hole you just drilled. Repeat the hole/sex bolt in spot diagonal to the first hole. Once you have 2 bolts installed, the steel will stay put in the frame. Drill and install the final two bolts. Now the frame is quite strong -- held by 4 bolts and a steel plate! When you sand the frame, you can remove two bolts at a time, sand that section, replace those bolts, then move on to the next section. This makes sure the steel plate stays aligned with the bolts. The base, supports and braces are standard cuts on the Shaper Origin and Workstation. I suggest you first cut the braces. Then cut the mortise in a support. You can use the brace to test the fit of the mortise and add negative offset as needed for a nice fit. You'll have to round the end of the brace to fit in the mortise (or square the mortise with a chisel). One the mortise is sized, cut the 10 mm dowel hole. Use a dowel for a test fit (it will NOT necessarily be the same offset you used for the dowel holes on the frame -- ask me how I know). Next cut the outline for the support. Cut the mortise for the base, and then you can use the brace and support to test the fit of the mortise. Again you'll need to round some edges (or sqaure some mortise corners). I fit the center brace to the width of the mortises in the base by using a handplane. Don't cut the center base to legnth until you are ready for a final dry fit. Sand everything before glue up (it will save a lot of time). Glue the braces in the supports and the supports in the bases. Before you cut the center base to length, do a test fit with the frame. You want about 1/8th inch clearance between the frame and support. I did a couple cuts to sneak up on the right length. You have to round the corners of the center base -- I did that multiple times in the fitting process (or you can square the mortise corners). Once you are happy with the fit, glue the center base to the right and left bases. I shellaced and waxed the pieces after glue up but before attaching the frame. To attach the frame, carefully drive the dowels through the outside ot the supports until they protrude just a little on the inside. Use shims under the frame edge to get the holes in the frame to align with the dowels. I loosely clamped the frame in place to keep it from flopping around. My dowels were so tight I had to use a wide clamp between both dowels to drive them in, but you might be able to carefully tap them in with a mallet. That's all folks!