24" three leg stool

Instructions

This build was featured is Shaper Sessions number 0030 that can be viewed at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-uofgruZmg&list=PLEHMLsAENuk8jA3-S9PQkvoUm6LFDvlHs&index=1 They made some great suggestions that I have now included as an update to the project. In particular Sam Cuttriss provided great advice on how to create SVG files directly from Sketchup and how to setup Inkscape to accurately create files for Shaper. He also had the idea of a rounded corner version of the three way lap joint and adding a 1 degree drift angle to the segmented seat design to aid in assembly. I have included the files created by the Shaper staff as a zip file. They are also at https://hub.shapertools.com/creators/59b9b947291ebbfa71254b56/shares/604fe36b014d700012b6c481 I have also included the original version 1 files as a zip file. All of the joinery for this build is referenced off of the size of the legs and the braces being exactly 1 ½” square. The stool was designed using Sketchup. The mortise and tenon joints were designed without compound angles so that they could be cut using the Shaper Workstation. The SVG files were exported from Sketchup and customized using Inkscape. The instructions state where to place the anchor on each file and where to place each anchor on the each ¼” grid. It is critical to get these correct. All grids have their origin (0,0) located at the front left corner. Some of the SVG files are larger than the area being routed to facilitate the pocket cutting operation. A 10° angle fixture and an end stop fixture are included to facilitate mounting the legs and braces in the Shaper workstation for the joinery. The 10° angle fixture is also used to set your table saw miter gauge to the same 10° angle for the leg and brace end cuts. The end stop fixture is used to precisely locate the braces on the Workstation so that the same grid can be used for the routing of all six lap joint cuts (two cuts per brace). There are several options you can use to make the stool. Read through the instructions and select your options before purchasing your lumber. You can either mill up rough cut 8/4 & 6/4 lumber or you can use surfaced lumber from a lumber yard. I made my prototype from two six foot 1” X 8” aspen boards cut to 3’ lengths and surfaced glued together. In my experience the glued up thickness was just slightly larger than the 1 ½” required. One board is for the legs and braces and the other is for the seat. There are two seat options; a single board circle that requires an edge glue up or a three segment circle. You also have an option on how to cut out the single board seat either using the Shaper Origin for the full cut or using the Shaper Origin for a ¼” edge pass followed by a bandsaw (jigsaw) and a flush trim router bit to finish the cut. There is also an option to use wedges in the tenons which is described in detail. This can be used for visual effect or if your tenons are a bit loose. If the tenons are tight however the wedges are not required. There is also an option to dish out the seat or to leave it flat. I describe two ways to dish out the seat using either a lathe or a router and templates. The design requires a three way 120° lap joint for the leg braces. I used a joint explained by Tamar on her website: https://www.3x3custom.com/tutorials/three-piece-lap-joint The Shaper Sessions staff suggested a version of this joint that does not require the use of a chisel that I have now included as a build option. The design requires some routing to 1 ½” deep. Thanks to the Shaper staff there are now two options that use either a bit with a 1” cut length or a 1 ½” cut length. First option - In my original instructions this is done with a less expensive bit in. Because the cutting length of the router bit is only 1” the finish cut always has to be done in two passes. Also the router bit has to be installed with 1 ¾” of the bit exposed. This requires a 3” long bit. This means that you can use the ¾” exposed shank of the bit above the cutting surface to reference off of the boards in order to create the girds without having to change the bit. Here is the 1/4” diameter, 3” long, spiral up cut carbide bit with a 1” cutting length that I used on Amazon’s site: https://www.amazon.com/SpeTool-Cutting-Diameter-Carbide-Carving/dp/B087M3BRXJ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Spiral+Router+Bits+with+UpCut+1%2F4+inch+Cutting+Diameter+Extra+Long+Solid+Carbide&qid=1612739176&sr=8-2 Second option - A more expensive bit with a 1 ½” cut length. With this longer cut length the final pass can be made at full length. But this bit can not be used to create the grids but has to be changed out for the etching bit so the solid part of the shank can be used for the grid reference. The bit can be purchased at: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Carving-Straight-Bottom-Coated/dp/B0112TUFJI/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=amana+tool+46577&qid=1616429120&sr=8-6