Grid Tool

Instructions

I originally contacted Shaper to see if I could purchase a failed spindle motor to use as a designated gridding tool. For warranty reason they understandably declined this. So I set about making my own tool. Using 6 pieces of 3/8” plywood I machined 4 that had the hole in the center, the notch in the top and then I cut the outer diameter. The 5th piece I drilled the center hole only and the the outer diameter. The top piece only the perimeter. Strange thing is when I created the 1/4” center hole in studio and chose a 1/4” bit it said the bit wouldn’t fit. I actually created this complete project on tool to get past this. I used my square when gluing the wood pieces together. I started inserting the drill bit also as soon as possible to make sure it and the pieces of wood I was gluing together were straight. The 4 notched pieces were perfect to control the depth that the piece drops into the Origin. Once all of the 70mm pieces of plywood were glued together I cut the router bit to length and epoxied it in place. Mine is approximately .125” above the cutting surface when installed in router. Once this dried I reduced the diameter of the smaller pieces 10mm at a time. So at 60mm, 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 20mm to create the taper. The visibility is tremendously increased! Mine turned out so close I can not tell a difference between using the spindle with the engraving bit and the jig I created. I tested this by creating a grid with the tool and engraving bit, then engraving a small square in the piece of wood. I then deleted the grid, rescanned the workspace without removing the piece of wood. I used my new tool to grid the same piece of wood and re-engraving the same square. I could not see a separate line from the new cut.