Dining Room Table

By Rick13
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BY-NC-SA 4.0 License
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Updated Sun Aug 07 2022

47 Inch Round Table, 30 inches Tall. I've seen this design is several places so I made my own. I designed the legs as one curve and then cut them in two pieces so I could get them out of one board and the grain would match. I used a Domino to put the legs together. I couldn't get the domino to work on the center structure since it was too large. So I cut domino holes with the shaper instead. This project can be done without a Domino and just buying the loose tenons or any joinery.

> 2 hr
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Furniture

Files Included (3)

  • Center Holder & Leg Domino Holes.svg

    240 kB
  • Kitchen Table Ankers.svg

    3 kB
  • Kitchen Table Legs Final.svg

    3 kB

Materials

Legs: 8/4 Walnut cut to 43 mm (1.693 inches). I bought Two 6 inch width Boards by 8 feet. This left no scraps big enough to use

Center: 3.5inch X 3.5inch X 8inch - I had to cut this from a 4 inch width board (3/4) four layers.

Top : 47 inch diameter as close to an inch as possible. I used 4/4 walnut which gave me 3/4

I made a circle cutter that fit my Bosch Router but it will fit any router just by matching the holes.

Tools

Instructions

I built the legs first in: After milling the lumber to 43mm I cut them out with the shaper origin using the work station with a larger shelf attached. I cut all the way through using the origin but I always regret using it for thicker pieces like this. I think it makes more sense to cut a template out to 1/4 MDF and then use a flush trim bit to cut the walnut. it will save time, bits and I think it comes out better. Then I used the domino to connect the legs and did a thorough sanding from 80 -180 grit using ROS on the faces and Spindle Sander for the corners. Then I built the center holder. I laminated 4 layers to create a 3.5 x 3.5 x 8 inch center block. I placed the center block in the work station against the index pin on the left and used the shaper bar to hold it in place with the shelf underneath(Image above). Then I used a stop block on the right side so I could take out the block and rotate it to put mortises on all four sides. I found the center of the unit and drew a line horizontally through it. Then creating a grid, I used two center points in the middle, on the left and then I used the edge on the right side. I used the attached SVG as the center points of the domino mortises by snapping the center line in the SVG to the center line of the grid against the right side. Once the image was placed there are four dots on where the domino mortise should go. Then I used the 10mm Domino holes that are on Shaper Hub and centered them to each dot making sure they snapped to the grid so they would be straight. I had to change the grid to 1mm to get them to snap exactly to the middle of the dot, and stay straight. Tapered Profile on Center Block: I did this before I made the mortises in the center piece but it could be done after and would give you better reference marks in this order. I made lines 3/4 from each edge and set up my table saw with 45 degree blade and just cut the edge off of all four sides rotates the piece against the fence. Then I added the domino mortises to the legs, instead of using the domino, I used the exact same file that I cut the center piece with. The file has a rectangle that matches the legs exactly, so you can rig up your legs in the work station and cut the mortises using the exact same file, so you know it will match. After everything gets sanded I glued it up and put it aside. I then milled the top boards. Since I was building a circle, I didn't use full size boards as I got to the end. There are a number of ways to cut out a circle on the table. I cut a MDF template for my router so I could attach to the center of top and cut out the circle. Then I used the files attached (Kitchen Table Angers) to hold the table to legs to the top. I turned the table upside down and put the legs in the correct position centered and event. When they were in a good spot, I marked each one separately on the bottom of the table and I put a clamp on both ankers squeezing the legs. I drilled a hole through the brackets and the legs at the same time. I removed the clamps and then I elongated the holes only in the legs to account for wood movement. (picture Attached). I then glued the anchors to the table making sure they are in the marked spot. I used bolts so I can remove them when I need to break the table down. I finished with Osmo Polyx Since I knew it would get ruined and I wanted to be able to replace the finish easily. This was a really fun project.


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