Pinboard Organizer with dovetails and drawers

Instructions

The Design I designed this for my entrance to store keys and coins in the drawers and pin photos, cards, and other trinkets to the wall. You also can use a sheet of metal, glued to a piece of wood to make it a magnetic pinboard. Preparation Cut all the wood to its final size. Cutting The project files are numbered in the suggested order to be cut. The files also suggest a router-bit and specify the depth. The files for the dovetail-router-bit define a starting-point which also should be your ending point. In the following some notes to every part of the workpiece are provided: 1. Cutting with Shaper Workstation & angle fence at 0°: Shelf (01): Use the 6mm router bit and cut the pins to 18mm depth with Autopass or step by step. 2. Cutting on flat surface with Shaper Tape on an accompanying 18mm thick piece of plywood: Left/Right Side (02, 03): The three holes can be milled with the Helix Tool. Don’t forget to test fit. Mill the holes with an offset of 0,2mm, before adjusting to achieve a perfect fit. The slot for the cork wall can be cut with Autopass or in two steps. Top (04): The slot for the cork wall can be cut with Autopass or in two steps with a pocket cut and an inside cut. Shelf (05, 06): The slot for the cork wall can be cut with Autopass or in two steps with a pocket cut and an inside cut (file 05). Flip the shelf by 180° with the slot oriented to the same side. Change your router bit to the dovetail bit. You have to cut the whole depth of 4mm at once (file 06). Use the starting point also as an endpoint, so the retracting of the motor doesn't affect your cut. Bottom (07): You have to cut the whole depth of 4mm at once (file 07). Use the starting point also as an endpoint, so the retracting of the motor doesn't affect your cut. 3. Cutting with Shaper Workstation & angle fence at 0°: Partition-Wall (08): Keep the dovetail router bit and clamp the piece of wood to workstation, the end grain facing upwards. Use the angle fence, so you have to align a grid only once. Be aware of the starting and endpoint. Tip: Precut the 4mm depth of the cutting with a sharp exacto knife/marking gauge to prevent the wood from splintering. Left/Right Side (09): When milling the mounting hole (file 09) pay attention to the correct orientation. The mounting hole is on the back, upside, where the slots are. Retract the T-Slot-Router-Bit only when you are at the starting point. Left/Right Side (10, 11): Take your time cutting the doves. Start by using the 6 mm router bit and file 10. Cut to 18 mm depth with Autopass or step by step with the pocket mode, followed by an inside cut. Switching to file 11 and the dovetail bit, turn off Autopass and apply the whole depth of 18 mm. Cut the inside carefully and only retract the motor when you are outside of the doves (starting point can also be the end point). Top/Bottom (12): Be sure to orient the pieces correctly. The cork wall slot of the top piece has to face to Workstation and the slide ins in the bottom piece has to face to Workstation, too. Use the 6mm router bit to cut the pins. Don’t forget to use an offset first, test fit and then adjust the offset. 4. Cutting with Shaper Workstation & adjustable shelf: Drawer-Side (13): Switch to the shelf, tape one of the big wooden pieces for three drawer sides on it with double sided tape and adjust the height. Apply a grid, place the file 3 times with 4 to 5 mm distance in between, before switching to the 3 mm Up-Spiral-Router-Bit. Cut the rabbet before the outer contour. Autopass is perfect for this. If you don’t use it, mill down to 6 mm in two steps, with an offset of 0,5 mm, before finishing without an offset. Drawer Front & Back (14, 16): Clamp the drawer front/back, facing end grain upwards, to workstation, apply a new grid, apply file 14 and switch to the 3 mm router bit. Mill the hidden pins with an offset, test fit and adjust the offset. Rotate the wood pieces 180°, keeping the orientation, to cut the hidden pins facing the same side. Three of the six pieces need to be taped to the Workstation Shelf, to cut the finger hole (file 16). Drawer Bottom (15): Tape down the big wood piece for the three drawer bottoms to the shelf. Apply a new grid, add the svg and switch to the 3 mm router bit. Mill the rabbet first and cut the outer contour. 5. Cutting the cork wall by hand: Most cork walls are made out of cardboard and a thin layer of cork glued to it. Use a sharp exacto knife and a straight ruler/bubble level/piece of plywood to get a perfect cut. The cork wall I bought is 6mm thick. You may adapt the slots width by adjusting the offset. The assembly The drawers are best to be assembled first. Glue all the parts together and set clamps to let the glue dry in perfect position. Before assembling the frame together with the cork wall, sand everything carefully and apply your varnish or oil. Pay attention to keep the connection surfaces (pins, tenons and doves) free of oil or varnish.