Bit Board for Cleat Wall

By PatrickS | Created June 24th, 2020 | Published June 24th, 2020 | Updated June 24th, 2020

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A board to put some (or all) of your bits in, while they are not in your screw driver. It has sections for the different tips, can be used directly from the wall but can also stand free on the desk while you're working with different screw heads to keep things organised.

40 min





Files included (6)
Bit Board Cleat Side.svg
2 kB
Bit Board Mortise.svg
1 kB

18mm Plywood (that's 0.7086614 inch) 6mm Upcut Router Bit (that's 0.2362205 inch) optional: 6mm Upcut Roughing Bit (0.2362205 inch) Engraving Bit :P
Shaper Origin Vertical Workstation (you can skip this and just use screws ;) ) optional: - Table Saw - Sanding Tool of your choice
If you copy this text and view it with a markdown compatible reader from the Future(TM) you profit from slightly improved readability. # Cut List: - 2x Cleat Sides - 1x Cleat Board ## Cleat Board If you have a table saw, cut a piece 140mm high by 286mm wide (that's 5.511811 by 11.25984 inches). If you do not use 18mm plywood but another thickness, cut the board to the width of 250mm + 2* thickness (9.84252 inches + 2*thickness). Tape it down and drop a grid with spacing of your material thickness on the workpiece. Place the design at y=0 and x=thickness (for me = 18mm). If you do not wish to cut the mortise and tenon but rather use screws, place the design at 0/0. Use the 6mm upcut bit to helix out the first hole to a depth of your choice, I used 12mm for it and check for a comfortable fit to put a test bit in and take it out. Adjust offset as neccessary and go to town helix cutting all the other holes. Use the engraving bit to cut the symbols. I cut them at 1.15mm because the next layer of ply shines through then and it looks nice ;-) Take the board to the vertical workstation and cut the tenon(?) on both sides to an offset of 0mm. ## Cleat Sides Place the Cleat Sides on a workpiece of your choice and dimension and cut the slots for the tenon first. Use the above cut board to check for good fit. Adjust offset if neccessary. *If you have a roughing bit:* Cut the outside cut at full depth of your material with a 1.5-2mm offset, depending on the "agressiveness" of your bit. The inlet on the "cleat hook" will be skipped with this offset and then cut with the 6mm Upcut bit later. Switch to the 6mm Upcut bit and position Origin at the place where the router cuts out the cleat that goes into the cleatrail on your wall. Cut this part at 0mm offset in 6-12-18mm steps and then cut your cleat sides free. *If you do not have a roughing bit:* You should get one ;-) Haha. Joke aside: Cut the outside of the cleat sides at 6-12-18mm with an offset and make a finishing pass at 0mm offset. Make sure to tape down your pieces good enough or leave 6mm taps all around and cut free later to prevent your piece from flying. Sand it, finish it as you like and glue up (or don't). But most importantly: Enjoy having your bits at one single place ;-) Affinity files are included if you need to make any modifications. ## Credits Icons are from the Yummy Tool Collection of Juraj Sedlák over at I purchased licenses for the symbols and do not have to credit the designer, but I choose to. Have a look at his work, maybe you find other icons you like.

This project is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution - NonCommerical - Share - Alike license