Penn State Logo and Sign
Patterns you can use to create Penn State themed signs, etc. One image is of the finished sign, the other is the sign before painting with the Oramask cut out using the file below.
6
Signage
Files Included (3)
PennState Sign copy.svg
7 kBPennStateLion.svg
4 kBpsu-mark.svg
7 kB
Materials
Some sort of board for the sign. MDF is a good choice if you will paint the whole surface. Any hard, flat surface will do.
Oramask - This is where I got it. There are many other places. https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14855-ora813.html?ref=isp_rel_no_match
Paint, stain, finish, maybe some painters tape, etc.
Tools
Origin and a place to put and hold the work piece.
Engraving bit. The one you get with Origin works but for this I like the sharper point of : https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14595-45611-k.html
You can use a drag knife to cut through the mask. They are expensive if you are only doing one-off pieces. https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14960-d2.html
Instructions
This is straightforward to make once you've played with Oramask once or twice. The file "PennState sign copy" above has all the art you see in the picture. I just added the others here because I had them and used them to create the final product. You don't NEED them. The steps are: Prepare your work piece surface. You may wish to use shellac or other sealer if you are concerned about seepage into bare wood that blurs the edges. Apply a layer of Oramask, carefully smoothing as you go, pulling the adhesive back ahead of contact with the work piece. Smooth the Oramask. You don't want bubbles. There are comments in the forum suggesting you allow the Oramask to "set" for a day or so. The poster, apparently with some experience, said full adherence to the surface takes 24 hours or so. I cant confirm this but I took his advice. Place your artwork according to normal Origin procedures. Trace the outline using the engraving bit. Use "Online" cuts. There is no offset here. Keep in mind you have to peel off the parts where paint is to contact the work surface so you must have closed shapes. I used a cutting depth of .002". .001 may well work also. Use a good caliper to check the thickness of the mask. A note about Z touching with such a sharp bit: You need a hard surface to touch off against. Wood, for instance will "puncture" a little giving a false reading. I use a piece of Cellular PVC with Formica on one side, cut to roughly the size of Origin's base. I place the origin on it to Z touch. It has to be large enough so Origin won't rock while performing this operation. Stop from time to time to clean the rotating bit. The adhesive can build up cause poor cut quality. You want as crisp a line as you can make. Mineral spirits works well for this. Using an E-xacto knife, gently lift a corner of parts to be removed and carefully remove them. In case something isn't cut through cleanly you don't want to lift the film outside the intended area. It wont hurt to roll the remaining masking material to get the edges pressed down, though, it may not be needed. Paint, shellac, etc. I wanted a heavy coat of paint so I did 2 coats. That's up to you. When the paint is dry you can pull off the mask and admire your work. As yet I have never pulled off the paint with the mask. I suspect you can pull the mask off before the paint is totally dry.