By GlennStasse | Created November 27th, 2019 | Published November 27th, 2019 | Updated November 28th, 2019
I'm making jewelry boxes for gifts. These Brusso hinges are nice. Note this is the smaller of the 2 sizes.
Files included (1)
boxes made of at least 1/2 thick material
1/4 and/or 1/8 cutters
There are some notes in blue in the SVG file worth looking at. The native file measures exactly what the hinge does using digital calipers. Nevertheless I had to use a -.007 (negative!) offset for a proper fit. The Brusso dimensions suggest the piece is .082 thick. My depth of cut was .089 and I was happy with that. I cut in one pass using a 0 offset in the Origin. I benefited from trying this on scrap blocks first. Almost anything will do.
I have yet to confront the problem of supporting the Origin on the actual work pieces. Working on the narrow edges of the box will entail some ingenuity, particularly since I want to cut both halves at once.
Needless to say, you will have to flip the pattern or the box parts to get both sides cut. If I can get the whole thing scanned in I will flip the pattern.
The 1/4" cutter fits the wings and saves a little cutting time when pocketting out the middle. But, 1/8" bit fits the holes and you can mark the slots with a 1/8" bit using an on line cut. This slot accommodates the gizmo that prevents the lid from opening past 95 degrees. This is supposed to be 3/4" deep on both sides. I will do this using a 1/8" bit but probably not that deep. I'll chisel the rest if I can't go that deep using the bit.
For the holes I just used Origin to mark them. I drilled the holes using a drill. In fact, a drill and Vix Bit work fine and you can skip using the Origin to mark the holes if you wish.
If you look at what Brusso shows as examples of this hinge in use, their boxes show the hinge sticking out from the surface by a quarter inch. The template they sell for routing this with a bushing has a 1/4" shim that would clamp between the lid and box for routing. I did not like that option and clamping the lid and box together with no shim works fine resulting in minimal stickout of the hinge when mounted. If you wish, though, you can put a shim between the lid and box. With no shim my lid works just fine, no interference.
You want to get this pattern located as accurately as you can. If the cutting is off the lid will not align when closed. With that in mind I included blue guidelines that center the anchor point on the split between the box and lid and along the centerline of the hinge wings. Align hinge wings on box lid and box bottom as befits your project. The blue horizontal lines are sized and located such that the center anchor point when placing the pattern should be at the intersection of these two lines. Mess with them at your peril! I found pencil lines on the box and lid edges very helpful in getting the hinge aligned but you have to scan that into your workspace to see the lines. A finely spaced grid is also most helpful in aligning all the parts.