MFT Top

Instructions

Use a 1/2" bit to helix cut all holes. Practice on some scrap first to set any offsets for the 20mm holes. The holes are sized 19.9mm, which is the Festool size, however that feels sloppy to me. I started with a .2 mm offset and snuck up on it by adjusting the offset until I was happy with the fit. If you don't use a 1/2" router bit, it can be a bit tedious to cut all these holes. MLCS sells a 1/2" plunge bit that has a 1/4" shank, it's called the Katana Straight Router Bit. Cut a rectangular top at 1102x718mm 20mm, usually MDF. Be sure the top is absolutely square and the size is precise before starting. You can, of course, cut the top with the Shaper as well but it would take longer. The holes at the four corner get a 9.6mm through drill with a 11.6mm diameter 5mm deep counterbore (couldn't represent that on the SVG). You can get this counterbore roughly by doing a 2mm negative offset with an inside cut. Add about a 2mm chamfer all around the top on both sides (helps fit it into the MFT and also prevents chipping of the MDF. Remove the screws form old MFT top, remove old MFT top, remove threaded inserts from the old MFT top (6mm hex key) and insert them into the new top. Position top on the MFT and screw into the MFT top from below. Use a lot of tape! I made the mistake of trying to skimp and one of my cuts didn't workout right. Added more tape, inlaid a plug and recut. Fits perfect as long as your top is cut square.