Plywood framed outboard skiff

Instructions

This is a fairly intense project. Some boat building experience or real tenacity may be required. On the cut file for the skiff aft sole there are several squares with slots. The purpose of these squares is to determine the plus or minus offset required when cutting all the slots so that there is a tight "Interference" fit for all the parts. Cutting these from your plywood and adjusting as necessary will make the frame go together properly. Once the building base is constructed (level raised surface made from LVL lumber) the boat frame parts can begin to be assembled. Step one is to assemble the fwd and aft sole pieces together. Then they are placed upside down on 2 x 4 supports above the building base. Step two is to insert each of the 6 aft frames through their corresponding notches in the sole. Step three is to assemble the components of the keel profile and then insert the fwd frames into their locations in the keel assembly. Step four is to insert the keel assembly and fwd frames into the centerline notches in the aft frames. Step five is to insert the waterline bracing from each side (two per side). Step six is to add the first two transom layers to the frame set-up. Next it is confirmed that all the joints are seated completely and that the overall frame is level and straight. When you are satisfied with the frame, all the intersecting joints are epoxied together with a small fillet of epoxy. Once cured the frame is rigid and locked into form. This is when boat building experience will become really helpful. The rest of the construction uses solid lumber battens along the sheer and chines to serve as guides for determining the shapes of the bottom and side panels. The sides are 9mm plywood and the bottom is constructed from two layers of 6mm plywood. The fwd quarter of the hull will not be achievable with full plywood panels. Cut the first layer into 5 inch strips running for and aft and epoxy in place with temporary screws. The second layer is made up of 1 1/2 wide strips running from the chine to the keel. After the epoxy has cured there will be some shaping required. The next steps are to glass the seams. The whole hull should be covered in fiberglass and epoxy then faired and primed. The finished hull weight was about 400 lbs total. Additional photos of the build process can be sent if desired.