By mfsamuel | Created March 22nd, 2020 | Published March 22nd, 2020 | Updated March 31st, 2020
This is a board for the game Crokinol.
The design is fairly simple, but a good surface finish is key.
1 hr 30 min
Files included (2)
crokinole full board.svg
crokinole small board.svg
■ 1/2" to 3/4" thick sheet of material of your choice. I used a 24" x 24" piece of cabinet shelving. Flat surface is key. For a full size board you will need a minimum of 26" diameter.
■ 8x 3/8" pegs cut to approximately 1" segments. I used brass rod.
■ Inlay material of your choice for the lines. I used water putty and black paint. Wood inlay, epoxy, or just painted lines would all work as well.
■ 1 can spray lacquer/varnish & finishing wax
■ Game pieces, and lubricating dust purchased from online retailer of your choice.
I first saw a review of this from Shut Up & Sit Down https://youtu.be/XMKzeg78peg
Seemed like a perfect game to make with SO. I have listed 2 plans for different sized boards, as I only made the smaller one due to the materials I had on hand, but felt the full sized board should be an option for people interested.
I just saw a similar board by Jeffrey18, but thought I should post mine as well with what mistakes I made, and suggestions.
First, the material needs to be flat. Really flat. I would suggest manufactured sheets goods like plywood (my recommendation), mdf, or laminate particle board (what I used). I did not have anything on-hand that was thick enough to not flex and sufficiently large to cut a full sized 26" board so I modified the regulation size to fit on the 24" scrap I had lying around from when I made my kitchen. I have included both plans as options.
Before cutting tips: I would recommend getting/making your pieces, and having whatever you are planning on using for pins before you start cutting. I inadvertently purchased slightly smaller game pieces and as a result I had to inlay a ring in the center hole to make the inner diameter smaller. I also had to hammer my pins in due to the tighter than planned fit, which would not have happened if I had the brass material in hand when cutting to ensure proper offsets of the holes.
I recommend working from the outside in. I used way more tape that I should have due to the SO loosing dominoes as I cut from the inside out. The center hole is a pocket cut with the 1/4" up-cut bit. Plans call for 1/4" depth. I recommend pocketing to .25" and doing the inside edge cut slightly deeper .27" so there is a gutter. I didn't do this (added a penny for the same effect), but it makes getting the game pieces easier to remove when you score in the center hole.
All the lines were cut using the engraving bit to .05" but less would have worked too. Adjust to meet your desired line size. I had the water putty on hand from other projects. I have never used it for inlay before, but it takes regular acrylic paint as pigment and doesn't shrink much. It cleans up with water, so I choose it over epoxy to save on finishing work.
I cut pins to 1" and recessed 1/2" into the board, I think this is also an ascetic choice, but I recommend test fitting while you cut the holes.
Once the inlay was done, I banded the outside with veneer because I used particle board, and I finished with a can of spray lacquer applied in thin coats until all imperfections were concealed. I did a light sanding before the last coat to ensure a smooth finish. I will wax the board in a month or so when it is fully cured. The goal is a smooth polished surface for disks to slide on.
Lastly there are commercially available lubricating dusts. I used a small amount of boric acid, but will most likely buy something in the future.
I will also design a tray for this to sit in with a gutter all the way around like the commercial boards to keep pieces from flying off into the void under the stove (my 5 year old was very sorry).
I hope someone else can enjoy this game too.