Floating Tape Board

Instructions

I pre-cut my tape board to size and added the ShaperTape before using Origin to make the holes for the copper fittings and set screws. To space the tape correctly start with the edge of the first row of tape 3/8" from the edge of the board and space additional rows of tape every 2 11/16". I used 1" wide 3M magic tape to protect the ShaperTape. Once the board is sized and taped you can scan and grid the board itself and load up the FLOATING TAPE BOARD-SO file to cut the holes. The 4x larger holes are for the copper pipe couplings. Start with a little offset and creep up on a tight fit to the couplings. My holes were tight enough that I needed to lightly hammer the couplings in but did not require any glue. For the 8x set screw holes you shouldn't need to use any offset since those will get tapped for threads. Thread the holes with an M10 tap and install the set screws with the tip facing down. If you want to add rounded corners you can either use the included .500 RADIUS-SO file or you can create a rounded rectangle shape using the shape creation tools in the on-tool design menu. To round a corner create a grid at the corner you want to round and place the radius file/shape at the (0,0) point of the grid. Do not cut the full perimeter of the shape. Begin your cut slightly before the corner and retract slightly after so that the only material removed is of the corner radius itself. It's probably best to start with a slight offset in case your grid probing wasn't perfect. The TAPE BOARD SPACER-SO part is optional, but if you do make them you need to make two. To use the floating tape board you will need a MFT-style worktop (don't worry, I have uploaded one you can make using Origin). It needs to have 3/4" or 20mm diameter holes laid out in a 96mm grid. Just line up the copper "dogs" of the tape board in whichever holes are most comfortable for the project you are working on. Place your workpiece against the edge of the tape board and use a 5mm allen key to level the edge of the tape board to your workpiece. Make a note of how far you needed to extend the front 4 set screws and match extend the rear 4 to match. Because of the length of the set screws and the thickness of the tape board the set screws should never extend above the top of the tape board surface. Using high quality birch plywood I am able to comfortably get over 1/4" of height adjustment. For workpieces thicker than 3/4" you can use the spacer pieces under the tape board. You can also make additional tape boards out of 3/4" or even 1" material and use longer set screws. In order to hold the workpiece securely you need to use clamps that apply pressure to the front edge of the workpiece. This way the clamping force holds the workpiece tightly against the front edge of the tape board, which cannot move anywhere because it is set in the dog holes. I still like to place a piece of masking tape along the edge of the tape board and workpiece in case a clamp loosens. Sometimes I will even just rely on this piece of tape and not use clamps at all, but only for quick and rough projects.