SMALL TARGET STAND

3/4" OSB or plywood for the top 1/2" plywood for the legs

1/8" bit with 3/4" or longer cutting edge

Everything is pretty straightforward except for the fact that I color coded the pockets as holes since they are so small that treating them as a pocket didn't make sense. The round holes and curved slots should be treated as pockets and only cut them as deep as your material warrants without cutting through. Do cut the rectangular center sections of the curved slots all the way through, as well as the 4 rectangles in the corners for the legs. In order to get the legs to fit you will need to either sand the corners of the tabs in the legs where they fit into the slots, or do some on-tool minimal dogbones by setting your offset to -.016" and plunge+retracting full depth at each slot corner. It is probably best to at least do the minimal dogbone at the inside corner of the leg where it meets the underside of the top when assembled. I recommend cutting the legs first so you can tweak the fit of the rectangular holes in the top for a snug fit. It will be much easier to move the assembled target stand around if the legs stay in place. There are different sized holes to let you pick the best on for your intended target. Some recommended targets are Dum Dum suckers, grapes, paintballs, golf balls, Necco wafers, etc. The index cards are to help you see your target better and to show you where your misses went. They are held in place by mini binder clips from underneath. You can even use the binder clips to hold playing cards sideways to try to split them edgewise. The completed project stands about 15" tall when assembled and is approximately 18" x 3" x 1.25" disassembled.