Folding Vertical Workstation

By Brock | Created December 21st, 2019 | Published December 27th, 2019 | Updated December 27th, 2019

uploaded project image
project image thumbnail
project image thumbnail
project image thumbnail
A folding version of the vertical workstation that is easy to build and adaptable to different thicknesses of material.

2 hr

Intermediate

14

Category

Jigs & Fixtures

Files included (4)
NameSize
FVWS LAYOUT1.svg
148 kB
FVWS LAYOUT2.svg
51 kB

1/2" Plywood (20"x23" + 20"X14.75" + 20"X12") 3/4" Plywood -- optional, see instructions 30mm x 40mm plastic hinges (qty 7) #10 x 1/2" flat head screws (qty 28) M6 x 10mm threaded inserts (qty 5) M6 x 20mm button head screws (qty 5) M10 x 12mm flat point set screws (optional - qty 4)
1/4" cutter 1/8" cutter
This version of the vertical workstation is foldable for easy storage and was designed to be easy to cut and material thickness tolerant. I have also included options for using 3/4" thick material for either the spoil and clamping boards, all underneath structure, or the entire project. The SVG's have been laid out to make cutting easy and minimize waste. The sizes of the boards are listed in the materials section and correspond to layouts 1, 2 and 3. The 4 optional configurations for this project are as follows: (1) Everything from 1/2" -- cut all layouts from 1/2" baltic birch ply or similar (2) 3/4" spoil and clamp boards -- cut layouts 1 and 2 from 1/2" ply and layout 3 from 3/4", use only the main opening alternate (blue guide) cut path (3) 1/2" top, everything else 3/4" -- cut layout 1 from 1/2", layouts 2 and 3 from 3/4", use all relevant alternate cut paths (4) Everything from 3/4" -- same as option 3 except cut layout 1 from 3/4" as well In addition to the above optional configurations you can also optionally cut 4 holes in the top plate for M10 set screws to help more precisely square the clamp board to the top plate. You can also opt to use T-track instead of dog holes for clamping, but only if the material you use for the clamp and spoil boards is 3/4". The materials listed are most relevant for option 1. For other options you may lengthen the screws or inserts by 1/4" where used in 3/4" material. Links to some of the hardware can be found at the bottom of these instructions. It is important to get the correct hinges as this project is designed specifically for them and will not work correctly with other hinges. Generally the order of cutting operations should be to cut all 1/8" screw holes, remove the bulk of material from the pockets, cut the perimeters of the pockets, cut all interior shapes, cut all outer perimeters. Pay attention to how the boards for each layout are clamped as you will be removing a lot of material and the clamps can loosen as the individual parts are cut out and the remaining board material loses structure. It is best to cut layout 1, the top plate, starting with a pre-sized board. It shouldn't matter much if the width or length are slightly off, but by starting with a pre-sized board you avoid having to cut the entire perimeter of the top plate. Lay the tape for board 1 starting with the edge of the tape 3/8" from the short edge of the board (this will become the furthest piece of tape from the main opening in the top of the workstation) and place 4 more rows of tape spaced every 2.5". These pieces of tape can remain on the workstation. With board 1 taped, create a grid from the edge opposite the first row of tape laid and place layout 1. After cutting everything near the main opening you can rotate around the board and cut the openings for the rear feet. To round the corners of the top plate start with a grid on the corner you want to round. Next, create a rounded rectangle using the on-tool drawing function and place it with its lower left corner on (0,0). Then use an outside cut to cut around just the corner nearest the actual corner of the workpiece. Do this for all 4 corners, creating a new grid and new rounded rectangle for each corner. You can use board one as a reusable tape board. Just clamp it securely and place board 2 next to it, nearest the first row of tape. Layout 2 is tall enough that it probably needs one more row of tape across the top, but this is likely all the tape you will need for this project. Obviously if you are using 3/4" material for layouts 2 and/or 3 you will need to shim board 1 accordingly. Once you have all the pieces cut you can install the 5 threaded inserts into the hinge board (the wide piece at the top of layout 2). The threaded inserts install from the same side as the hinge pockets. You can pre-assemble the 2 sides to the clamp board with 4 hinges and screws. Note that the 3 small holes should be to the top of the clamp board and the sides should be oriented so that the angled edges point up and away. You can also pre-assemble the hinge board to the underside of the top plate, starting by attaching the hinges to the hinge board. When joining the 2 assemblies leave the 3 M6 screws slightly loose and use some clamps to hold everything tight and square before fully tightening the 3 screws. Install the spoil board last, level with the top surface of the top plate. The spoil board is slotted so that you can trim or reverse it to expose a fresh edge. 30mm x 40mm plastic hinges (can be found cheaper on eBay but with long shipping times) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Unique-Bargains-40mm-x-30mm-Black-Plastic-Cabinet-Ball-Bearing-Hinge-10-Pcs-for-Door/46559602 #10 x 1/2" flat head screws https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771QQBL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 M6 x 10mm threaded inserts https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z97C45D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 M10 x 12mm flat point set screws https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Socket-Screws-Metric-DIN913/dp/B01N3Z63TT/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=m10+flat+set+screw+12mm&qid=1576524128&sr=8-13

This project is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution - NonCommerical - Share - Alike license