Quilt rack

Instructions

Two 3 1/2' x 1" (actual) are used as a clamp to hold a quilt. Flat-headed brass bolts will be paired with the brass thumb screws to create the clamping pressure. This gives the quilt full exposure for display. Everything was done on tool except for the standard butterfly inlays of oak at about 1/2", in this case, ​to match a walnut conference table i​n the same room. I used the grid to place the holes in the top piece then when set by SO, just drilled through the back plate. I will use metal cleats for hanging so I can clamp the quilt in the rack and use the cleat system to hang the rack. This not only simplifies the hanging process but makes switching quilts easier. 1) Cut walnut pieces to size so they match, leave square; 2) cut butterflies from Oak, using the pattern on line, in my case 3 were proportional; 3) Find center and place butterfly where desired physically on top board and trace onto board, also make general marks at centers between end and butterflys and between butterflies for placement of holes for thorugh bolts; 4) apply shaper tape, with some regard for the butterfly mark for layout purposes; 5) set the grid and use grid to set the 1/4" bolt placement (I used 1.5" from top); 6) run up the board, so that as you ruin the tape, cutting the holes and inlays for the butterflies along the way replacing SO tape as needed (the width of 3.5" is a challenge, I did not pair the two boards but that might help); 7) the grid orientation stays the same so when you get to the other end, clean up the tape and update the scan and place the butterflies and holes from the other end: 7) place butterflys and glue in and sand down the execes (or bevel the edges for a cool effect); 8) use hand router with fence to place a 3/4 dado along the bottom , I set 3/4" from bottom so the top of the dado was 1.5" from the bottom this provides room for the edging of the quilt helping with grip and preserving the quilt by not smashing the edging; 9) using a round-over bit in the hand router, round both sides of both boards to make it "float" away from the wall; 10) on the back of the backboard (without the inlays) use the hand router to inset the bolt holes so they are flush or deeper (a great chance to play with bold length and adjust); finally 11) sand and apply finish. I used Danish Oil, for the natural look and how it pulls the grain on walnut. I left it at the natural oil, but a top coat of varnish or oil based polyurethane would increase shine. Apply two short metal cleat hangers on each end measured to be aligned by the top edge of the back board. Then measure that spacing and apply the paired cleats on the wall. Hang.​