Miette table Created by Sam — Here is a little project for my daughter. A 30" x 24" table, approx 20" tall ( depends on wood thickness ) With Origin it was pretty straight forward to make. Its a small prototype of what will eventully be a larger table ( once I rebuild the fusion file to be properly parametric. ) 1.5hrs Origin cutting time, significantly longer finishing, glueing etc
Successfully Added to your Files

Miette table

By Sam|BY-NC-SA 4.0 License|Updated July 28th, 2020

uploaded project imageuploaded project image
project image thumbnailproject image thumbnail
project image thumbnailproject image thumbnail
project image thumbnailproject image thumbnail
project image thumbnailproject image thumbnail
Here is a little project for my daughter. A 30" x 24" table, approx 20" tall ( depends on wood thickness ) With Origin it was pretty straight forward to make. Its a small prototype of what will eventully be a larger table ( once I rebuild the fusion file to be properly parametric. ) 1.5hrs Origin cutting time, significantly longer finishing, glueing etc

1 hr 30 min

Intermediate

132

Files included (6)
NameSize
leg_A.svg
2 kB
leg_B.svg
2 kB

2.5" x 2.5" legs 0.8" thick larger than 24" x 30" table top 0.8" skirt ( these can be thinner if you like, just do a shallower pocket on the legs ) 1/4" dowels rod figure 8 fasteners 3 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006FKSA6)
Origin 1/4" cutter with 1" cutting flute length ( keep in mind Origin ships with a 1/4" cutter with 3/4" cuttign flute length. ) Sander Clamps, clamps and more clamps. A table router with a long pattern bit would have been nice. Hand router with a 3/8" roundover bit.
1. glue up and table top larger than 24" x 30" 2. cut table top out ( i cut form the underside so that the top surface is the cleanest ) 3. then chamfer the under side perimeter 4. cut two of each skirt shape ( remember to cut the dowel holes all the way through first ) 5. the legs are 2" square at the top when finished, i used 2.5" square stock which saved me needing to manage too many sacrificial inserts during cutting. 6. Using grid align the top and long straight edge of leg_A to the stock using the appropriate anchor 7. pocket to the depth of your skirt wood 0.8" in my case 8. cut the the dowels holes to 1.4" (from the top surface ) or there about 9. cut the perimeter of leg_A to 1" deep ( it needs to be deeper than the pocket to allow a following bearing to ride along it and not fall into the pocket ) you can leave out the top and the straight edges if you did a good job aligning wit the grid. `10. rotate the leg stock forwards 90 degrees and repeat the previous steps to cut leg_B but this time aligning the long straight edge to the top of the stock ( this is where having a 0.5" grid spacing and exactly 2.5" stock helps ) 11. Cut 4 legs to this state, then with a good jigsaw or bandsaw cut the waste off from both sides. preferably with a table router install a pattern bit long enough to clear the remaining material, be sure to set the bearing high enough to not fall into the pocket. 12. With a large hand router and a 3/8" Roundover bit round over the inside of each leg before glue up 13. Cut 16 x 4" dowel lengths 14. Dry fit legs to the skirt and confirm everything aligns and the dowels insert to full depth. 15. Glue and clamp the base together inserting the pegs as you go. 16. once dry, trim pegs, and sand everything 17. round over the other edges of your legs and the outside of the skirts 18. finish sand and finish with whatever you like ( i like this stuff: miraclecover http://www.miraclecoversd.com/products.html but no one else here at Shaper agrees with me. ) 19. attach the top with the figure 8 fasteners.